Long-lasting Irons

The electric iron used to be a simple appliance consisting of an electrical heating element pressed on to the sole plate of the iron and controlled by a simple variable bi-metal thermostat. Its rugged construction and lack of gadgetry made it a long-lasting appliance. Irons have changed greatly in recent years, with attention to styling and reduction in weight making them much more attractive and easier to use. In addition, many irons now have a variable steam facility, a steam release valve and a plain cold water spray.

All irons need to heat the metal sole plate — the part that comes into contact with the clothes — and to control the temperature to a given setting. Earlier irons used replaceable heating elements, but most modern irons are made with the heating element bonded within the sole plate. This means that the simple fault of an open circuit element requires a new sole plate unit. The cost of this is usually very high in relation to the cost of a new iron.

Thermostats have changed little and are still predominantly bi-metal. However, unlike early irons, most replacement thermostats are now pre-calibrated. Irons usually have an indicator light that goes out when the sole plate reaches the selected temperature. This is controlled by the thermostat in conjunction with the element control .

The iron needs to be able to store water for the steam spray facility. It is essential that the seals and the water container are checked regularly for leaks, especially after any repairs or inspection. Irons require earth connections, and a three-pin plug and socket must be used for these appliances.

Scale build-up

When tap water is heated to produce steam, mineral scale builds up, the extent of which depends on the hardness of water used. Tap water may be used in some irons, but distilled water is necessary for others. Read the manufacturer’s instructions, as using the wrong water will cause blocking through scale build-up, resulting in a complete failure of the appliance. Some irons are classed as self-cleaning. This is usually carried out by a powerful jet of steam which cleans the scale away.

Some irons have steam valves that can easily be removed for cleaning, thus allowing the use of tap water. Nevertheless, if you have very hard water in your area, it may be unwise to use tap water. It is important to use only distilled or de-ionized water in irons that cannot use tap water. Do not use melted water from defrosted refrigerators or freezers and avoid using battery top-up water.

Many modern steam irons have silicone-coated valves and jets or demineralizing crystals within them that prevent scaling. Demineralizers are also available separately and convert tap water into fully demineralized water suitable for all steam irons.

Irons that are not self-cleaning require regular descaling. This will allow an iron to perform better and longer. The frequency of descaling varies according to whether tap water is used and the degree of hardness of the water.

Descaling

Use a proprietary brand of descaler specially formulated for irons and follow the instructions carefully. Non-toxic, non-caustic, non-corrosive and fully bio-degradable brands are popular. More than one treatment may be necessary if the iron has been used regularly without being descaled. The descaler works by breaking down the bond between the scale and the host surface. The residue is then rinsed away. Before using a descaling product, check the manufacturer’s instructions carefully; some self-cleaning irons should not be descaled in this way even though they will still tend to scale-up when used regularly in very hard water areas.

Electrical problems

The commonest fault is deterioration of the flex caused by its constant movement during use. This may result in a broken inner conductor, giving rise to a plain open circuit fault, or more commonly, an overheating fault due to the movement of the flex causing a make-break action. Heat is generated at this point and will eventually lead to a short circuit within the cable or exposure of the inner wires. This problem occurs more often at the entry point of the cable sleeve on the iron. It is essential that the flex is checked regularly for signs of wear or damage. At the first sign of damage renew the whole flex with non-kink iron flex. This problem has been alleviated by better designs, such as the inclusion on some models of a storage facility for the mains lead and easier adaptability for use with either left or right hand.

The introduction of the cordless iron solves the flex problem, although the base unit still requires a mains-powered lead. When the iron is placed on the base unit, it receives power that heats up the sole plate to the correct temperature (via the iron’s own thermostat). Sole plates on these irons are thicker than those on conventional irons and normally use a higher wattage element to retain the heat between charge periods. Most models have the same facilities as corded irons, but it is most important to return the iron to the base unit regularly, especially if the steam setting is in use.

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