Specific symptoms include: Little or no water enters the dishwasher tub cavity. To find the cause, first check to be sure the water supply is ON.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on dishwasher components. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter.
When making continuity checks with the volt/ohmmeter, always turn the electricity OFF at the circuit breaker panel. Live voltage checks will damage the meter movement.
With the water supply ON, remove the lower panel. Place a towel or shallow container on floor to absorb water. Loosen the nut that secures the dishwasher water tubing to the inlet port of the water inlet valve. If water collects immediately in the towel or container, it can safely be assumed that the water pressure is adequate and the plumbing system is not clogged or stopped up. If little or no water collects in the container, the water line gate valve could be defective or there is a problem in the plumbing system. A qualified plumber should be called to fix the problem.
Turn the water supply OFF. Remove the lower panel. Loosen and remove nut that attaches water tubing to water inlet valve inlet port. With tubing removed, check for corrosion and debris that has accumulated inside the tubing and inlet valve inlet port. Tap the nut and along the tubing wall to loosen corrosion inside the tubing. Continue this procedure until all corrosion has been removed from the water tubing. Place the tubing in a container or bucket and turn the water supply ON. The reason for this test is to make sure there are no restrictions in the water line, and also to thoroughly flush the corrosion deposits from the water tubing. Turn the water supply OFF. Reinstall the water tubing to the water inlet valve inlet port. Turn the water supply ON. Select a cycle on the timer dial where the dishwasher starts to fill with water. If it starts to fill with water — you fixed it. The problem was corrosion inside the water tubing or inlet valve water inlet port. If the dishwasher still does not fill with water, an additional electrical check will have to be made.
Next, test for electrical power to the water inlet valve from the dishwasher timer assembly. Using the volt/ohmmeter, set the meter on the 150-volt scale and attach the two test leads of the volt/ohmmeter to the two terminals of the water inlet valve solenoid coil to be checked. Turn the water supply ON. With the test leads attached to the solenoid terminals, select a cycle on the dishwasher timer dial where the dishwasher starts to fill with water. Push in or pull out the timer dial. You should get a voltage reading of 110-125 volts A/C on the volt/ohmmeter scale. If you get a reading, this would indicate that electricity is available from the dishwasher timer assembly to the water inlet valve.
However, the absence of water flow means the water inlet valve is defective and you would have to replace it in order for the dishwasher to fill with water.
If you get a no voltage reading on the volt/ohmmeter, you will have to check for a possible defective timer assembly. Also, check for possible broken or burned wires from the timer assembly to the door switch. A check should be made for a defective door switch. Also, check for broken or burned wires from the door switch to the water inlet valve.
Turn the electricity OFF at the circuit breaker panel. Remove the timer knob by unscrewing it in a counter-clockwise direction. Remove the dial by pulling forward. Remove the caps. Remove the screws that secure the console panel to the cabinet and remove panel. Locate door switch. NOTE: A defective door switch will keep the dishwasher from filling with water because electricity is not capable of reaching the water inlet valve. Using the volt/ohmmeter, set the meter on the RX-1 scale. Connect one probe from the volt/ohmmeter to one terminal of the door switch. Check for continuity by depressing (push in) the plunger of the switch with the fingers. The volt/ohmmeter should show full scale deflection, or 0 ohms. This check would indicate that the switch is not defective. If you do not get a continuity reading, the switch is defective — replace it.
NOTE: Probes placed incorrectly on the terminals of the switch terminals will result in inaccurate readings leading to a misdiagnosis of the door switch.
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