Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Dishwasher has a full tub of water at the end of the cycle. 2) Dishwasher only partially drains and leaves water in tub at end of cycle.
Remove the lower panel. Locate the pump drain hose and see if a kink in the hose is evident. If so, remove the kink and check the dishwasher for proper operation. If the dishwasher now pumps the water out, you found the problem — a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out, the problem is in the dishwasher pump assembly.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, When making continuity checks with the volt/ohmmeter, always turn OFF the electricity at the circuit breaker panel. Live voltage checks made with the volt/ohmmeter in a continuity position will damage the meter movement.
A simple check to make for stopped-up or backed- up plumbing is to remove the lower panel from the dishwasher. Locate the drain hose that is attached to the pump assembly base coupling. Remove the drain hose from the coupling with hand tools. Place the removed drain hose in a suitable container or bucket. Turn the dishwasher timer dial to a pump out increment on the timer assembly dial. Turn the dishwasher to ON. With the drive motor running, water should now enter the container. If water pumps into the container, the problem is not with your dishwasher but the plumbing system. A plumber would have to be called to locate and clear the blockage. If no water collects in the container, the problem is a defective component in the pump assembly, or a kinked drain hose.
To check the pump assembly, it is necessary on most dishwashers to remove the drive motor and pump assembly from the dishwasher. NOTE: The removal and installation of the internal components of the pump assembly will be discussed in the repair procedures.
With the dishwasher timer knob in the OFF position, slowly move the timer dial in a clockwise rotation until a pump-out increment is found on the timer dial. With the knob pushed in or pushed out, to ON, the drive motor should start to run. After the motor has run for approximately three minutes, open the dishwasher door to see if the wash water has pumped out. If the tub is empty, the timer assembly is skipping increments in the cycle. The timer will have to be replaced. NOTE: Never turn the dishwasher timer knob while the drive motor is running or while the timer assembly is in the ON position. It will damage the timer assembly and require replacement.
It would be difficult for the home repairman to accurately make an operational test of a dishwasher drive motor. A special dishwasher test cord is required to properly check the drive motor. Most motor or appliance repair shops offer these services. If a drive motor is found to be defective, it would be necessary to replace the drive motor to restore the dishwasher to proper operation.
The drive motor windings, however, can be tested for continuity by using the volt/ohmmeter. With the volt/ohmmeter “zeroed” and the selector switch set to the RX-1 scale, place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on one terminal of the motor connector and the remaining probe on another terminal of the motor connector. If the winding to be tested shows continuity, the volt/ohmmeter will show full-scale deflection (or 0) ohms. Check the remaining motor terminals with the volt/ohmmeter for an open or shorted winding.
The drive motor starting relay is also tested for continuity by using the volt/ohmmeter. Set the selector switch on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminal of the relay winding. Place the remaining probe on the terminal to end of relay winding. If the winding tested shows continuity, the volt/ohmmeter will show full scale deflection, or 0 ohms. A NO continuity reading would indicate a defective motor relay — replace it.
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