Next in line after the water supply valve is the water inlet valve, usually located at the back of the machine near the bottom. The role of the water inlet valve is to release supply water from the supply line so that it can enter the icemaker mold cavity. However, the valve’s internal components can eventually become worn out from the corrosive properties and algae in the water, and fail to supply water to the mold cavity. Check the water inlet valve to see if it is electrically releasing the water on command to the mold cavity.
The easiest way to check this valve is to check the water level in the mold cavity itself. First, make sure that the icemaker shut-off arm is in the down (ON) position. Also, note the position of the ejector blade — it should be in the horizontal position. Providing that electricity is available, this indicates that the icemaker has made a revolution (360 degrees) and the icemaker should have filled with water.
If water is reaching the mold and the icemaker is filling with water properly, there should be a water level of at least 1/2 inch in the mold. This would indicate that the water inlet valve is operating properly. However, if you see no water or only a small amount of water in the mold, it can be assumed that the water inlet valve is defective and should be replaced. You should also check the water inlet tube on the back of the refrigerator for possible ice obstruction.
Remove two screws and pull the tube out gently. An ice formation in the water inlet tube is caused by a defective water inlet valve. If you find this condition, you will have to replace the inlet valve in order for the icemaker to make ice.
If there is no ice formation in the water inlet tube and no water has entered the mold cavity, you should next test the water inlet valve electrically to verify its operation. Move the refrigerator out from the wall. Unplug the power cord and open the freezer door. Slowly turn the ice- maker ejector blade by hand in a counter clock-wise direction until it reaches the 6 o’clock position. NOTE: Do not manually turn the icemaker ejector blade too fast. You can easily strip the drive motor gears and ruin the motor.
The reason for manually turning the ejector blade counterclockwise is to get the icemaker in a position so that electrical checks can be made to the water inlet valve. Next, remove screws in the back of the refrigerator. Remove the screws that secure the water inlet valve to the refrigerator cabinet, and remove the water inlet valve.
Set the volt/ohmmeter to the 150-volt scale and connect the probes to the refrigerator wiring harness that was disconnected from the water inlet valve. Plug the refrigerator power cord into the receptacle.
With power to the unit, the icemaker will begin to revolve clockwise until it reaches the 8 o’clock position, at which time the fill switch in the icemaker will complete a circuit to the water inlet valve. As the ejector blade of the icemaker approaches the 8 o’clock position, you should show a reading on the voltmeter scale of 110-125 volts. This indicates that electricity is being supplied from the icemaker to the water inlet valve.
Correct voltage reading means power has been verified to the water inlet valve wiring harness. The problem has now been isolated to a defective water inlet valve.
If, however, there is no reading on the volt/ohmmeter, this would indicate that voltage required to operate the icemaker is not available. A check for the following should be made:
A check for a defective water inlet valve can also be made with the electrical test cord. With the water inlet valve removed and water supply valve turned ON, place one lead of the test cord on each terminal of the water inlet valve. Place a container over water inlet tube in freezer. Next, plug the test cord into a 110-to-125-volt receptacle. The valve should now force water through the tubing and into the icemaker inlet tube or container. If no water enters the inlet tube, then it is a good indication that the water inlet valve is defective and will have to be replaced in order for the icemaker to work.
A simple check for a possible defective cycling thermostat is to place the icemaker shut-off arm in the up (OFF) position and leave for a period of approximately 2 hours. After an extended OFF period, place the shut-off arm in the down (ON) position. The icemaker ejector blade should revolve in a clockwise rotation toward the 12 o’clock position. If, however, the ejector blade remains in the start position, check for electrical power to the icemaker receptacle. If power is available, then some component in the icemaker or the cycling thermostat is defective.
A visual check can also be made to diagnose a defective cycling thermostat. Open the refrigerator freezer door and note the position of the ice- maker ejector blade. If, for example, the ejector blade is stalled in the 12, 2, or 4 o’clock positions, it could mean that there is a defective component inside the icemaker. If, however, the ejector blade is stalled in the “start” or horizontal position, and it stays in this position for two to three days, then it could be diagnosed that the icemaker cycling thermostat is defective and should be replaced.
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