Appliances Renovation

Electronic Appliance Refrigerator is Running – Icemaker not Making Ice (repair and replace procedures A)

Move the refrigerator out from the wall. Unplug the refrigerator power cord, and turn OFF the water supply to the icemaker.

To Replace Water Supply Valve

Using hand tools, remove screws and discard the defective water supply valve. When installing a water supply valve on the water heater, install only on the cold-water side of the water heater.

When installing a new self-tapping valve on an icemaker water supply line, only install on standard 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch copper tubing. Never install these valves on plastic pipes. Some icemaker installations have chrome or “shiny” tubing under the sink. This tubing is stainless steely and under no circumstances should you install a self-tapping valve on this type tubing.

Install the new replacement water supply valve by mounting it in the same position as the defective water supply valve that was removed. Follow closely the installation steps that are provided in the replacement valve kit. NOTE: When installing a replacement water supply valve, it is sometimes better to use two neoprene hose washers to bridge between the valve body and the copper tubing. This will assure that the stinger will pierce the tubing and not distort the tubing, resulting in a possible water leak.

To Replace Water Inlet Valve

Unplug refrigerator power cord and remove screws to refrigerator back. Using hand tools, unscrew the fitting attached to the water inlet valve threads and remove the tubing. Remove the refrigerator wiring harness and defective water inlet valve from the refrigerator cabinet and discard the old valve. Install the replacement water inlet valve by mounting it in the same position as the defective valve that was removed. Follow installation steps that are provided in the replacement valve kit.

After you have installed a replacement water inlet valve, you should test cycle the icemaker and make adjustments to achieve the proper water fill in the icemaker mold. These adjustments are usually necessary because of pressure variations throughout the country.

To test cycle an icemaker, first remove the icemaker from the freezer section of the refrigerator. Unplug the wiring harness slowly and turn the icemaker ejector blade counterclockwise to the 8 o’clock position. Connect the wiring harness to the cabinet wiring or receptacle. Place a measuring cup that is graduated in ounces under the icemaker water inlet tube. As the icemaker revolves in a clockwise rotation to the 10 o’clock position, the icemaker will call for water and approximately 6 ounces of water should enter the measuring cup.

If the water fill adjustment is not correct, the icemaker will produce undersized or oversized crescents. It might be necessary, if the water calibration is out of adjustment, to test cycle the icemaker several times to achieve proper water fill.

Use the adjustment screw on the icemaker to calibrate the water fill. When you turn this screw clockwise, less water will enter the mold cavity. When you turn the screw counterclockwise, more water will enter the mold cavity.

It is usually advisable to test cycle the icemaker two or three times after you have replaced a water inlet valve. The purpose is to remove any discolored water, algae, contaminants, and possible air that might have entered the water line.

After you have made a proper water fill adjustment, turn the ejector blade counterclockwise to the 8 o’clock position. Connect the wiring harness to the cabinet wiring or receptacle. Secure the icemaker to the freezer section of the refrigerator. Now check for proper water fill after the icemaker has completed a cycle.

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