Appliances Renovation

Fridge Frost Build-up in Freezer, how to Fix it? (Check Points)

Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Frost build-up on back wall in freezer section of Fridge. 2) Fridge ice maker not making ice. 3) Food not remaining at the desired temperature in both the Fridge and freezer sections.

When the Fridge starts to build up frost in the freezer section, you can assume that something is preventing the Fridge from going into the defrost cycle. You will have to check the components of the defrost circuit. Move the Fridge out from the wall and unplug the Fridge power cord. Check the components in the order listed below.

Check Defrost Timer

First, check the defrost timer as the most likely component to cause a frost build up. Refer to the “Fridge Does Not Run, Interior Light ON” section for the correct procedure in checking the Fridge defrost timer.

If you have checked the defrost timer and found it to be operating properly, insert a flat- blade screwdriver or table knife in the slot in front of the timer. Turn the screwdriver slowly clockwise until you hear a click or until all fan motors (condenser and evaporator) and the compressor motor have stopped running. Open the freezer door, and after five to seven minutes, listen for a popping and cracking sound. This sound indicates that the defrost heater is operating properly — it is doing the job by electrically heating and melting the frost accumulation on the evaporator coil. If you do not hear a popping sound in the above check, the defrost heater or the defrost termination switch should next be checked.

Check Defrost Heater

You can check the defrost heater by removing the plastic breaker strips on the left- and right-hand sides of the freezer section. Locate the defrost heater Repair Procedures). Visually check for burned or broken wiring to the defrost heater. If no defect in the cabinet wiring is evident, remove one wire from the defrost heater and attach a probe of the volt/ohmmeter to the heater wire.

Set the selector switch of the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter to the remaining terminal of the defrost heater. If the heater is good, a continuity reading of approximately 2 to 12 ohms should be indicated. If there is no continuity or meter deflection in the above check, you will have to replace the defrost heater in order for the Fridge to operate properly.

NOTE: You should remove one wire from the defrost heater before making a volt/ohmmeter check. This step will eliminate the possibility of any electrical feedback and false reading from the various electrical circuits.

If a volt/ohmmeter is not available, you can check the defrost heater with an electrical test cord. As voltage is applied across the terminals of the defrost heater, the heater should show a slight glow or heat in the lower area of the defrost heater if it is good. If you see no glow or feel heat, the defrost heater is defective. You will have to replace it to restore the Fridge to proper operating order. If you do see a glow on the defrost heater, check the defrost termination switch.

Check Defrost Termination Switch

After removing above parts, locate the defrost timer termination switch and check for burned or broken wires. If you see no noticeable defect in the wiring, unplug the Fridge power cord to check the defrost termination switch with the volt/ohmmeter. Set the selector switch of the volt/ohmmeter to the RX-1 scale. Place one probe ofthe volt/ohmmeter to one terminal of the defrost termination switch. Place the other probe to the remaining terminal. A continuity reading on the volt/ohmmeter of 0 ohms (full-scale meter deflection) indicates that the termination switch is closed or an electrical circuit exists through the termination switch. No continuity reading means the switch is defective and you will have to replace the switch in order for the Fridge to operate properly.

NOTE: For the above volt/ohmmeter check of the defrost termination switch, the Fridge must be at 0 degrees temperature in the freezer section. The defrost termination switch will open and the compressor will start when the evaporator has reached a temperature of 50-70 degrees.

NOTE: You should remove one wire from the defrost termination switch before making volt/- ohmmeter checks. This will eliminate the possibility of any electrical feedback from the various circuits that would show a false reading.

You can also check the defrost termination switch without the volt/ohmmeter. Simply remove the two wires to the defrost termination switch from the wiring harness, and tie these wires together (bypass the switch) to energize the defrost heater。First, plug the Fridge power cord into an 110-to-125-volt receptacle. With the defrost timer advanced to the defrost cycle, the defrost heater should be energized. With the heater energized, there should be a red glow in the lower area of the defrost heater. If a red glow is visible, this is evidence that the defrost termination switch is defective. You will have to replace it in order to restore the Fridge to proper operating order.

NOTE: Never leave the termination switch out of the defrost circuit, because in a short time a severe buildup of frost would appear on the evaporator coil. Install the tied wires in their original positions on the defrost termination switch.

Check Drain Trough Orifice

As the evaporator frost is melted by the defrost heater, the water drips into the drain trough. It then flows into the drain orifice tube and then trickles into the defrost drain cup. If an obstruction such as ice or frozen food wrappers has lodged over the drain orifice, it will only be a short time before the evaporator will become clogged with ice and the Fridge will not cool properly. Remove the obstruction in order for the Fridge to operate correctly.

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