Fridge runs Continuously, Cabinet Warm, fix Household Appliance by yourself (check points)

Other specific failure symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at the desired temperature. 2) Fridge compressor does not cycle OFF.

If the compressor motor runs continuously in an attempt to keep the fridge cool but the cabinet is still not cool enough, you will have to find the component or failure that is restricting the cooling capacity of the fridge. Check the components in the order that they are listed below.

Check Fridge Condenser Coils

Remove the fridge front grill, and check the condenser for obstructions such as lint or dirt. To remove lint, use a good strong suction vacuum cleaner. An alternate method is to use a portable air tank to blow the lint away from the fridge condenser coil.

Check Fridge Door Gasket

Most no-frost fridges manufactured today use magnetic door gaskets to seal or bond the fridge or freezer door against the fridge cabinet. The gaskets keep outside air from entering the freezer or fridge sections of the appliance. Constant opening and closing of a fridge door can eventually result in a gap, tearing, or door misalignment.

Visually check the fridge and freezer doors for the proper mating or bonding of door seals to the fridge cabinet. If the door gasket is torn, replace it.

Check Interior Light Switch

Open the fridge section door and locate the interior light switch. It is usually located on the side or the top of the fridge section cabinet. Push the switch plunger in, and confirm that the interior light goes out. If the interior light is inoperative, check the bulb. A visual check will usually determine if a filament in the bulb is broken. If so, replace the bulb with an “appliance bulb” from your local grocery store or hardware.

If the interior light now comes ON with the door open, close the fridge section door, and place a small knife or screwdriver gently through the door seal to see if the interior light is ON. (Turn off room lights to see better.) If the interior light is ON, then the light switch is not operating properly. This is a common problem, and the result is higher-than-normal temperatures in the fridge section. A small appliance bulb can, surprisingly, raise cabinet temperatures approximately 20 degrees above the normal 38- to 42-degree temperature.

If the switch is not operating properly, open the fridge door to see if the switch plunger strikes the door liner as the door is being closed. Sometimes misalignment is caused by a sagging door liner.

Also, check to see if the fridge door is closing properly against the fridge cabinet.

A check for voltage to the interior light switch can easily be made with the volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the 150-volt scale. Plug the fridge power cord into a 110-125 volt receptacle. Place the probes of the volt/ohmmeter across the switch terminals. A reading on the volt/ohmmeter scale of 110-125 volts should be indicated. If voltage is available to the light switch, check for a defective switch.

Unplug the power cord, set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place the probes of the volt/ohmmeter across the switch terminals. With the switch plunger out, the volt/ohmmeter should show continuity, 0 ohms. If there is no meter movement, the switch is defective, and will have to be replaced for the fridge to operate properly.

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