Fridge does not run, Interior Light Comes on (Check Point)

Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.

Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.

Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay.

Check Defrost Timer

You can easily determine if the defrost timer is defective without the use of test equipment. Remove the bottom grill or open door of Fridge and locate the defrost timer. (Fridge defrost timers are located either in the Fridge section compartment in the front or on the back of the Fridge). With the Fridge plugged in, insert a flat-blade screwdriver or table knife in the slot on the front of the timer. Turn the screwdriver slowly clockwise until you hear a click. If the Fridge starts to run, the defrost timer is defective internally. For the Fridge to operate properly, you will have to replace the timer.

Also, if there is a slight resistance while turning the screwdriver, the timer ratchet mechanism is binding or frozen and must be replaced. Defrost timer failures occur as moisture and water enter the timer and corrode the internal parts. This can be verified by water stains on the timer terminals and timer case. If the timer turns freely with the screwdriver, this is an indication that the timer is mechanically OK.

You can also check the defrost timer motor by removing the timer from the Fridge cabinet and inspecting the small window on the back of the timer. With the Fridge plugged in and the timer motor running, the sprocket and gears will be moving inside the window. If the gears are stalled inside the window, the timer motor is defective and must be replaced.

The defrost timer can be checked internally by the use of the volt/ohmmeter. With the Fridge unplugged, set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe on terminal “1″ of the defrost timer and the remaining probe on terminal “2″. With a screwdriver or knife inserted in the slot of the defrost timer, slowly turn in a clockwise direction until you hear a click. At this point, you should see full-scale deflection. This reading would indicate that the Fridge has entered the defrost cycle and the defrost timer switches internally are not defective. If, however, there is no meter movement on the scale of the volt/ohmmeter, the defrost timer is defective internally and must be replaced.

The contact switches in the defrost timer that operate the compressor circuit can easily be checked with the volt/ohmmeter. Again, the volt/- ohmmeter is set on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe on terminal “1″ of the defrost timer and the other on terminal “3″. With a screwdriver or knife inserted in the slot of the defrost timer, slowly turn in a clockwise direction until you hear a click. At this point there may or may not be full- scale deflection (0 ohms) on the volt/ohmmeter. Continue to turn the screwdriver until a second click is heard. The meter should now show full- scale deflection, or 0 ohms. A continuity reading would mean that the switches are not defective internally and the defrost timer is OK.

To check for line voltage to the defrost timer, plug in the Fridge to a 110-to-125-volt receptacle. Set the scale of the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale. Locate the defrost timer and place one of the probes on terminal “1″ and the remaining probe on terminal “3.” If line voltage is available to the defrost timer, the meter should indicate 110-125 volts. If no voltage is indicated, check for defective wiring to the defrost timer or a defect in the terminal block.

Check Thermostat

If the defrost timer is OK, check the thermostat next. You can easily check the thermostat with the volt/ohmmeter. First, unplug the Fridge power cord, and remove the thermostat from the control console. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale, and place the probes of the volt/- ohmmeter to each one of the thermostat terminals. With the thermostat control knob in the OFF position, there should be no continuity—no meter movement. With the control knob in the ON position, or a number on the dial, there should be continuity (full-scale deflection) on the meter. If not, you will have to replace it.

If the above test shows that the thermostat is defective, you can double-check it by bypassing the thermostat (wires jumped). Plug in the Fridge power cord, and if the Fridge compressor motor starts, the thermostat obviously is the cause of the failure. Replacing the thermostat is described in the repair procedure section.

Check Start Relay

With the Fridge door open and the power cord plugged in, observe the interior light for an intermittent dimming as the compressor motor tries to start. If the interior light shows signs of dimming in approximately fifteen second intervals, this means that the compressor motor is trying to start. Two possible causes of the problem are the start relay or the start capacitor. Listen at the bottom front grill for a buzzing or clicking sound in six to fifteen second intervals. If the buzzing or clicking sounds are evident, this is an indication that electricity is available to the start relay and start capacitor. If the compressor finally starts, the problem is a “struggling” relay. If the compressor does not start after repeated attempts, the problem is the start capacitor or possibly the compressor motor.

To check the starting relay for an open coil, remove the relay from the compressor starting package. Set the volt/ohmmeter to the RX-1 scale. Place one probe on each terminal of the starting relay. A continuity (0 ohm) reading would mean the relay coil is not defective. If no reading is shown on the volt/ohmmeter, the relay is defective and will have to be replaced.

The volt/ohmmeter can also be used to check the start relay contacts. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place a probe on each terminal of the relay. When making this check, you must turn the relay upside down to check the contacts for continuity. The meter should show continuity or full-scale deflection if the relay contacts are closing properly. This would enable the Fridge to electrically start the compressor motor. No reading would mean the start relay is bad, and must be replaced.

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