Washer Won’t Start in Cycle (Get Washing Machine Fixed)

Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”

To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.

Check Washer Receptacle

Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts.

Check Power Cord

If the above checks show no voltage at the power receptacle, the problem may be in the receptacle, house wiring, fuse, or circuit breaker(s). If voltage IS available at the power receptacle, but the machine still does not work, check the washer power cord. Remove the cord from the receptacle and set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe on one prong of the power cord, and place the other probe on the other end of the washer power cord. (Check both wires.) If the cord has no burned or broken wires, the meter should show continuity (0 ohms). Perform the same procedure on the other side of the power cord. If there is a continuity on both prongs of the power cord, the cord is not faulty.

To Check Timer Assembly

With the washer plugged into a 110-125 volt receptacle, pull out or push in the timer knob with the washer ON. Turn the timer knob to various cycle selections and try to detect any buzzing sounds. If the washer does not start and you hear no noises in the timer assembly you will have to determine if line voltage is available to the timer and if the contact switches in the timer assembly are in good condition.

Set the volt/ohmmeter on the 150-V A/C scale. Place one probe on the hot wire (usually black) that leads from the power cord to the BK terminal on the timer. Place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the W, or neutral, terminal of the timer. With the washer ON, you should get a reading of 110-125 volts. If you do get this reading, but the machine does not work, then replace the timer assembly. If line voltage is not available, you should isolate the problem to the electrical wires, washer power cord or wall receptacle.

The above checks are only examples. If available, you should use the wiring diagram of your automatic washer for the proper timer terminals when making line voltage checks.

Use the volt/ohmmeter to check the ON-OFF contact switch and timer function switches within the timer assembly. To check the timer ON-OFF contacts, set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and with timer side plate removed, the ON-OFF contacts are located as the timer knob is pulled out or pushed in. Place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on one terminal of contacts and place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the remaining terminal of the ON-OFF contacts. As the timer assembly knob is pulled out or pushed in, the scale on the volt/ohmmeter should show full-scale deflection (0 ohms), which would indicate that the contact switch (ON-OFF) is good. Thus, you could assume that the timer is not faulty.

With timer ON, and in any cycle where the washer fills with water, listen for water trying to enter the washer tub. If you do not hear water entering, look behind the washer to see if the washer’s hot/cold connections have been turned OFF accidentally. Washers are designed so that water must enter the washer tub and fill to a certain level (as selected on the load-size selector) before the washer will begin agitating.

With the timer knob turned ON and the washer hot/cold connections turned OFF, you should hear a small buzz or hum at the left or right side of the washer. If you do not hear this hum or buzz, you must make a wiring and component check from the timer assembly to the water inlet valve. Washer components that could cause the above problem such as water level, inlet valve and timer have previously been discussed in “Water Leaks Onto Floor” section of this service guide.

Remove the washer console backand check to see that there are no loose or broken wires to the water level control and water temperature selector. Raise the washer top and locate the water inlet valve and determine if any wires may have been burned or loose or fallen off the water inlet valve. Automatic washers, during the agitation and spin cycles, produce an excessive amount of vibrations. These vibrations, in time, will cause wiring connections to become loose or dislodged from a component terminal, which can cause the above symptoms.

REPAIR PROCEDURES

Unplug the washer power cord before servicing the automatic washer. Exercise care when moving the washer from its original position, or the washer legs might damage the floor.

To Replace Washer Receptacle

It is recommended that a qualified electrician perform all electrical work in the replacement of a defective washer receptacle.

To Replace Washer Power Cord

First, you must unplug the washer power cord from the wall receptacle. Next, raise the washer topand remove the wiring harness wires that are connected to the washer power cord. Use hand tools to remove the screws that secure the hinge to the washer top. Remove the top hinge and slide the washer power cord grommett away from its original position. The washer power cord can now be removed from the washer cabinet).

Install the replacement power cord by mounting in the same position as the faulty power cord that was removed.

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