Washers do not spin in Cycle (how to Get Washing Machine Fixed)

Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.

Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.

Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure.

Using Test Equipment

To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter.

Before making continuity checks, always unplug the washer.

Check Timer Assembly

Check to be sure the timer assembly dial is advancing as the washer is agitating. If the timer dial is sticking as it moves through the cycles, the problem is a faulty timer motor. There are some washer timer motors that can be disassembled, lubricated, reassembled, and reused on the washer. Most timer motors fail due to lack of lubrication. You can lubricate the motor bearings with a solution of hi-temp oil such as sewing machine oil or light-weight motor oil. NOTE: Oils that have a silicone or detergent base should never be used in small motor bearings. Timer motors can be checked with the volt/ohmmeter and electrical test cord.

With the dial set on the RX-1 scale, place one probe on one terminal of the timer and other probe on the terminal that supplies voltage to the drive motor. With the timer ON the meter should read 0 ohms resistance if the motor windings are good. If no continuity is indicated on the volt/ohmmeter scale, then the timer motor is bad and should be replaced.

Check Washer Lid Switch

Raise the top of the washer and locate the lid switch. This switch is a safety feature inserted between the timer assembly and the spin solenoid. It is designed to shut off the washer if the lid door is opened. When the lid door is closed, the washer will resume its normal spin operation.

There are two electrical tests you can use to check the washer lid switch: Voltage measurement and resistance.

Voltage — You can easily make this check by setting the volt/ohmmeter to the 150 A/C scale and measuring the voltage across the wires (two to three) from the timer assembly. When making a voltage check to the washer lid switch, set the dial on the timer assembly to a cycle that requires the washer to spin. The timer must be ON, of course.

To make the voltage measurement, place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on one terminal of the lid switch and the other probe to the remaining terminal. A reading of 110-125 volts should be indicated on the meter.

Resistance Check — To use the volt/ ohmmeter to check for continuity of the washer lid switch, set the meter on the RX-1 scale. Place a probe on each terminal of the lid switch. With the volt/ohmmeter leads connected, depress the switch button until a click is heard. The meter should show a full-scale reading (or 0 ohms).

If the above test shows that voltage is available to the washer lid switch, then you know the washer timer assembly is functioning properly and that there are no burned or broken wires from the timer. If, however, there is no continuity when the switch is depressed, then the component must be replaced. If the washer does not spin in the cycle, even after replacing the switch, the problem is burned or broken wire(s) from the lid switch to the washer gearcase, faulty timer, or a faulty control magnet.

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