Washing Machine does not Fill with Water (Check and Repair)

Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does _I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.

Using Test Equipment

To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter.

When making continuity checks with the volt/ohmmeter, always unplug the washer power cord because live voltage checks will damage the meter movement.

Check Water Inlet Valve Screens

Turn off the hot and cold water at the wash station. Remove the fill hoses from the washer water inlet valve, and place each hose in the washer basket. Then turn ON the hot and cold faucets, one at a time. There should be water flowing freely into the washer basket.

If no water enters the washer basket, turn OFF hot and cold valves, remove the washer fill hoses at the wash station and check for a restriction in the inlet valve screen(s). Remove the screens from the valve body with a small screwdriver and clean them in hot water, or replace the screens as necessary.

Check Water Inlet Valve

Next, test for electrical power to the water inlet valve from the washer timer assembly. Using the volt/ohmmeter, set the meter on the 150-volt scale and attach the two test leads of the volt/ ohmmeter to the two terminals of the water inlet valve solenoid coil to be checked. Turn the hot and cold valve OFF and plug the washer power cord into the washer receptacle at the wash station. With the test leads attached to the solenoid terminals, select a cycle on the washer timer dial to where the washer starts to fill with water. Push in or pull out the washer timer dial. You should get a voltage reading of 110-125 volts A/C on the volt/ohmmeter scale. If you do get a reading, this would indicate that electricity is available from the washer timer assembly to the washer water inlet valve. You would have to replace the water inlet valve to restore the washer to proper operating order.

If you get no voltage reading, you will have to check both the water temperature selector switch and the timer assembly to determine which of the two is at fault.

Check Water Temperature Selector Switch

You can easily check the water temperature selector switch with the volt/ohmmeter by measuring for continuity.

With the volt/ohmmeter set on the RX-1 scale, connect one probe from the volt/ohmmeter to another terminal of the selector switch. Attach the remaining probe to another terminal of the selector switch. Check the switch at each temperature setting for continuity. For example, as you turn the selector switch knob to the hot/cold setting, the volt/ohmmeter should show full-scale deflection (0 ohms) and you should get the same reading for hot/warm, warm/cold, cold/cold, and warm/warm, if used. In any of these settings, if you do not get a continuity reading, you must replace the switch.

NOTE: Probes placed incorrectly on the switch terminals will result in inaccurate readings leading to a misdiagnosis of the switch.

Check Timer Assembly

The washer timer switch contacts can be checked by using a volt/ohmmeter. Set the meter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on one terminal of the timer and the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the remaining switch terminal that supplies voltage to the selector switch. The timer switch contacts are not defective internally if continuity (0 ohms) is shown on the volt/ohmmeter. If there is no continuity, the washer timer assembly is faulty and must be replaced.

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