Some utility companies offer free energy inspections, or you can do your own. The point to remember is a basic law of physics: heat moves toward cold. In winter the heated air in your home tries to move to the cold outside, and in the summer the hot air outside tries to get into the coolness of your home. The harder your heating or cooling system has to work to overcome this law, the higher your utility bills. Installing adequate insulation and sealing air leaks go a long way to reduce this transfer of energy, but first you need to know where to look. Make a list of any places that need attention.
Checking outlets.
This test works best on a windy day. Hold your hand close to each switch plate and receptacle, particularly on the outside walls. You might be surprised to find drafts coming from several outlets.
Checking baseboards.
Run your hand along the baseboard to check for drafts where the baseboard meets the floor and where it meets the wall.
Checking doors. Feel for drafts along each edge of the door and door moldings. At night, stand outside while someone shines a flashlight along the edges of the door.
Checking windows. Feel along the molding around windows and check for loose or missing putty around the panes.
Checking plumbing outlets.
Use the flashlight to check under the sinks for gaps where the pipes enter the walls. Then feel for any drafts.
Checking fireplaces.
Hold your hand inside the opening in the fireplace to check for drafts. The damper could be open or the cleanout door (if you have one) might not be closed properly. Now check for drafts along the edges where the wall and ceiling meet the fireplace.
Checking the attic insulation.
Feel for any drafts around the access hatch. Then open the hatch and climb up into the attic. If the attic has no floor, measure the depth of the insulation and write it down for later use.
Checking the attic for gaps and fire hazards.
Notice whether all nooks are filled and the areas around vent pipes are covered. Mae sure that all recessed light fixtures and exhaust fans have a 3-inch uninsulated space around them. The space between a chimney and any wood framing should be filled with a noncombustible material such as sheet metal sealed with silicone caulk.
Checking a ventilated crawl space.
If you have a ventilated crawl space, measure the thickness of the insulation under the floor and write it down for later use. Check for drafts around any openings where electrical cables and plumbing go through the floor.
Checking the basement.
Look for drafts along outside walls where the floor sits on top of the basement walls.
Go outside and check for drafts where the walls sit on top of the foundation. Stopping drafts with caulking and weather stripping is one of the easiest ways to save home energy costs. Check with your paint or building-supply dealer for the best type of caulking for your specific needs. Generally, oil-based caulking is the least expensive, but it’s not too durable. Acrylic latex is the easiest to use, cleans up with water, and can be painted immediately with latex paint. Silicone caulk is the most expensive and lasts the longest. It does not take paint well; however, it is available in various colors. Use a flexible foam, sold in long rolls, to fill larger (1 /4 inch or more) cracks before caulking.
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Do your own Home Energy Inspections
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