Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer fills with water, and motor starts to run, but the washer agitator does not turn in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, or 2) At end of cycle, clothes are gritty and soapy with water.
To find the cause of the problem, first check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall socket. Read the rest of this entry »
Clothes dryers accomplish their task by furnishing heated air in large volumes to the interior of a rotating drum where the clothes are tumbled and tossed while being exposed to the passing air. For the clothes dryer to work, the machine needs a source of heat, tumbling capability, large volumes of fresh air, and the ability to remove large amounts of moisture-laden air from the interior of the dryer cabinet. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Clothes are not dry at end of cycle. 2) The dryer timer assembly is not advancing in the cycle properly.
To find the cause of the problem, first move the dryer out from the wall and remove the vent hose. With the dryer running, place your hand on the dryer exhaust duct to determine if there is any hot air being discharged. If the air is cold, you will have to make a line voltage check at the dryer receptacle to determine whether full 220-to-240-volt power is available. Read the rest of this entry »
This failure is normally attributed to a loss of electrical power or an electrical overload.
To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from the wall and unplug the dryer power cord from dryer wall receptacle. Make a voltage check with the volt/ohmmeter to determine if there is electrical power available to the dryer receptacle or to the dryer power cord.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the power cord or gas supply before servicing the clothes dryer. Move clothes dryer out from the wall. Exercise care when moving the dryer from its original position because the dryer legs can easily tear holes in your floor.
Remove screws to dryer top. Lift the top of the dryer by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver between the cabinet and the top of the dryer. Remove the screws that secure door switch to dryer front panel and discard the door switch. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific failure symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at the desired temperature. 2) Fridge compressor does not cycle OFF.
If the compressor motor runs continuously in an attempt to keep the fridge cool but the cabinet is still not cool enough, you will have to find the component or failure that is restricting the cooling capacity of the fridge. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord, open the refrigerator freezer door, locate the compact icemaker and place your hand on the ejector blade. Turn it slowly in a clockwise direction. If the icemaker ejector blade continues to turn unaided, the problem is a defective icemaker holding switch. The icemaker holding switch can be checked with the volt/ohmmeter. First, set the ohmmeter to the RX-1 scale. Next, place the probes of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminals of the holding switch. With the switch button depressed, you should see full-scale deflection (continuity), on the scale of the volt/ohmmeter. No reading on the ohmmeter means the holding switch is open and must be replaced. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Water on floor near dishwasher. 2) During dishwasher cycle, water accumulates on left or right side of dishwasher lower panel.
To locate the cause of the problem, remove lower panel and check for broken plumbing drain connections, water inlet valve, broken or cracked hoses (drain and inlet), or drive motor and pump assembly motor seal. If a hose or a faulty part is found, replace it. Check that door is closing properly. Read the rest of this entry »
This is very important if you have a fridge with a built in deep-freeze compartment and not so if you have a frost-fee fridge. You know that feeling when you’re desperately trying to get to that last little ice cream lying in the back of the compartment and end up wrecking the ice compartment’s door because it won’t open?
When more than 10 mm of ice has accumulated it’s time to defrost. If the fridge has a defrost setting, engage it, or simply switch off the fridge. Some fridges can take up to 24 hours to defrost completely; consult the manufacturer’s instruction manual. Read the rest of this entry »
These have a similar motor to the vacuum cleaner; the most common fault being brush wear. Burning out of the windings is also fairly frequent and is usually caused by overloading due to misuse.
The popular low-priced rotary mowers are usually powered by a brush motor similar to that of an electric drill (power tool). Carbon brushes need replacing when they wear but the component which is likely to give the greatest concern is the thermal cutout usually situated in the handle. The function of this is to cut off the current to the motor when there is a risk of overload when cutting very long grass. Read the rest of this entry »
