Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer fills with water, and motor starts to run, but the washer agitator does not turn in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, or 2) At end of cycle, clothes are gritty and soapy with water.
To find the cause of the problem, first check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall socket. Read the rest of this entry »
Clothes dryers accomplish their task by furnishing heated air in large volumes to the interior of a rotating drum where the clothes are tumbled and tossed while being exposed to the passing air. For the clothes dryer to work, the machine needs a source of heat, tumbling capability, large volumes of fresh air, and the ability to remove large amounts of moisture-laden air from the interior of the dryer cabinet. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Clothes are not dry at end of cycle. 2) The dryer timer assembly is not advancing in the cycle properly.
To find the cause of the problem, first move the dryer out from the wall and remove the vent hose. With the dryer running, place your hand on the dryer exhaust duct to determine if there is any hot air being discharged. If the air is cold, you will have to make a line voltage check at the dryer receptacle to determine whether full 220-to-240-volt power is available. Read the rest of this entry »
This failure is normally attributed to a loss of electrical power or an electrical overload.
To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from the wall and unplug the dryer power cord from dryer wall receptacle. Make a voltage check with the volt/ohmmeter to determine if there is electrical power available to the dryer receptacle or to the dryer power cord.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the power cord or gas supply before servicing the clothes dryer. Move clothes dryer out from the wall. Exercise care when moving the dryer from its original position because the dryer legs can easily tear holes in your floor.
Remove screws to dryer top. Lift the top of the dryer by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver between the cabinet and the top of the dryer. Remove the screws that secure door switch to dryer front panel and discard the door switch. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific failure symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at the desired temperature. 2) Fridge compressor does not cycle OFF.
If the compressor motor runs continuously in an attempt to keep the fridge cool but the cabinet is still not cool enough, you will have to find the component or failure that is restricting the cooling capacity of the fridge. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord, open the refrigerator freezer door, locate the compact icemaker and place your hand on the ejector blade. Turn it slowly in a clockwise direction. If the icemaker ejector blade continues to turn unaided, the problem is a defective icemaker holding switch. The icemaker holding switch can be checked with the volt/ohmmeter. First, set the ohmmeter to the RX-1 scale. Next, place the probes of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminals of the holding switch. With the switch button depressed, you should see full-scale deflection (continuity), on the scale of the volt/ohmmeter. No reading on the ohmmeter means the holding switch is open and must be replaced. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Water on floor near dishwasher. 2) During dishwasher cycle, water accumulates on left or right side of dishwasher lower panel.
To locate the cause of the problem, remove lower panel and check for broken plumbing drain connections, water inlet valve, broken or cracked hoses (drain and inlet), or drive motor and pump assembly motor seal. If a hose or a faulty part is found, replace it. Check that door is closing properly. Read the rest of this entry »
This is very important if you have a fridge with a built in deep-freeze compartment and not so if you have a frost-fee fridge. You know that feeling when you’re desperately trying to get to that last little ice cream lying in the back of the compartment and end up wrecking the ice compartment’s door because it won’t open?
When more than 10 mm of ice has accumulated it’s time to defrost. If the fridge has a defrost setting, engage it, or simply switch off the fridge. Some fridges can take up to 24 hours to defrost completely; consult the manufacturer’s instruction manual. Read the rest of this entry »
These have a similar motor to the vacuum cleaner; the most common fault being brush wear. Burning out of the windings is also fairly frequent and is usually caused by overloading due to misuse.
The popular low-priced rotary mowers are usually powered by a brush motor similar to that of an electric drill (power tool). Carbon brushes need replacing when they wear but the component which is likely to give the greatest concern is the thermal cutout usually situated in the handle. The function of this is to cut off the current to the motor when there is a risk of overload when cutting very long grass. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) The dishwasher won’t complete the dishwasher cycle. 2) The dishwasher has a burning smell during the cycle.
Check the dishwasher wiring for a possible loose connection where it connects to the house wiring.
Check for a circuit breaker in the circuit breaker panel that is defective.
Check the dishwasher timer assembly for erratic operation. If the dishwasher suddenly started when the timer dial is pushed to the ON-OFF position, the timer assembly ON-OFF contacts are defective internally. You will have to replace the timer assembly in order for the dishwasher to program through the cycle properly. Read the rest of this entry »
Take particular care in the bathroom where special regulations apply.
Do not install a socket-outlet in the bathroom other than an approved shaver supply unit for a mains voltage shaver.
Do not make provision for using a mains voltage portable appliance. For example do not run a portable electric heater from a socket-outlet situated outside the bathroom i.e. on the landing or in an adjacent bedroom. If the tank cupboard opens into the bathroom and the tank has an immersion heater do not supply it from a socket-outlet (not a good method in any case) which could be used for plugging in a portable appliance. Read the rest of this entry »
The earth path of an appliance can be checked easily using a simple test meter. Remember, path of low resistance is required from all items within a appliance that are linked into the earth path via the yellow and green cable.
The earth path of an appliance from its exposed metal parts to the earth pin of the plug should be a maximum of 1 ohm (BS3456).
Checking the earth path of a socket requires an earth loop test meter which needs to be operated correctly. This is an expensive item and, moreover, problems may be encountered with distribution boards fitted with an RCD. It is, therefore, advisable to have these tests done by a qualified electrical contractor. Read the rest of this entry »
All the mains appliances featured here have some kind of mains cable. Problems with the electronic cables of portable appliances are quite common, especially those that are moved around constantly while in use, such as vacuum cleaners and hedge cutters.
The problems can range from a simple break in one or more of the conductors, which would render the appliance open circuit, to the breakdown of the cable’s insulating properties caused by damage, fatigue or neglect, leading to the risk of electric shock or fire. Electronic cables and extension leads must be checked regularly and thoroughly.
There are several different types of flexible electronic cable in two-core and three-core configurations on the appliances shown here. It is important to remember that two-core electronic cable is used only on double insulated appliances; three-core electronic cable is used on all items requiring an earth connection. Read the rest of this entry »
The term ‘harness‘ is used for all of the wires that connect the various components within an appliance. In large appliances they are usually bound or fastened ‘together in bunches to keep the wiring neat and safely anchored. Smaller appliances, however, may sacrifice neatness for safety and route the wiring to avoid contact with heat or sharp edges. The correct positioning of wiring also contributes to the double insulation of an appliance, so no alterations whatsoever should be made to the routing or position of the wiring in double insulated appliances.
When you first take a look at it, the harness may seem like a jumble of wires thrown together, but if you take the time to inspect it, you will find that each wire is colour-coded or numbered either on the wire itself or on the connector at each end. This allows the engineer to follow the wire through the appliance easily. With a little practice, any wiring or coding can be easily followed. Read the rest of this entry »
Capacitors used for motor starting may have metal or plastic outer casings with an insulated top with two terminals. Internally the two terminals are connected to two sheets of metal foil with an insulator between. This package of large surface area is rolled into a cylinder which fits into the shell of the capacitor. As the voltage supplied to one terminal is alternating (at 50 times per second), so does the polarity of its connected foil. An opposite movement of electrons is induced in the other foil, even though they are insulated electrically. This causes a delay in the electrical path, and this, in the case of an asynchronous induction motor, gives the outof-phase feed to the start winding. Read the rest of this entry »
Most labour-saving household appliances contain an electric motor of some description. They are the workhorse of these appliances and most of them are capable of coping with the work loads inflicted upon them. However, some motors, either through poor design or as a result of manufacturers’ cost limitations, are inadequate for the job they are required to do. Adequate or not, at some point it is almost inevitable that they will fail or simply wear out. To delay this, use the appliance with some care and attention, be aware of its limitations and carry out regular inspection and servicing. This will prevent small problems escalating into major ones
Not only do the sizes of motors vary greatly between products, so too do the ways in which they work. To diagnose faults successfully and service or repair appliances, a working knowledge of motors is essential. The following provide a basic introduction to the various types, a description of how they work, the appliances in which each may be found and their particular advantages and drawbacks. Specific problems can be found on individual appliances. Read the rest of this entry »
Aschematic diagram of the internal workings of a pod-type thermostat. This type is used in appliances that have a variable temperature control. It consists of an oil-filled pod connected to the switch by a capillary tube. When the oil in the pod is heated or cooled, it expands or contracts in the tube and operates a diaphragm. The diaphragm acts on the switchgear thus breaking the circuit and in this instance, ‘making’ the other. The cooling oil contracts, pulling the switch the opposite way — back to its original position; the process repeats if temperatures change. Read the rest of this entry »
Isolate the appliance before removing covers or panels for any reason. All tests for continuity should be carried out with a battery operated test meter only.
The most likely cause of overheating will be a failure of the thermostat contact points or sealed pressure system. In such a case you will need to fit a new compatible replacement unit.
Slow initial heating-up times or uneven heat distribution within the oven is usually caused by the failure of one element. Simple testing of the element will highlight the faulty item.
Failure to heat up at all may be either the thermostat or elements. As elements are the easier of the two to check for continuity, a simple process of elimination will indicate where the fault lies. Read the rest of this entry »
Most systems allow for a length of the capillary tube from the filter to be fixed on the outside (or inside on some machines) of the return from the evaporator. This is done to improve the efficiency of the sealed system and keeps the return tube from forming condensation because it is colder than the surrounding air.
The automatic defrost operation is done simply by warming the evaporator area by means of a small heater unit. This melts the build-up of ice particles which run off the base of the unit into a catchment channel. Read the rest of this entry »
