Wait until hot food has cooled down before putting it into the fridge.
Don’t keep the fridge door open any longer than necessary. Read the rest of this entry »
Renewable energy is energy produced by a source that continually renews itself. Well-known sources are the sun, moving water, wind and plant materials. This energy can be used for space heating and hot water heating, and to produce electricity for your home. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
If the washer is not spinning, the next check is of the washer control magnet. Washers use a control magnet, an electrical-mechanical component, to enable the gearcase to shift into the spin cycle. You can easily check the control magnet by using the volt/ohmmeter set on the RX-10 scale. With the volt/ohmmeter on RX-10 scale, connect the probes to both terminals of the control magnet. NOTE: When checking a suspected faulty control magnet, remove the wires from the washer wiring harness to avoid an inaccurate reading. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”
To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.
Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts. Read the rest of this entry »
This failure is normally attributed to a loss of electrical power or an electrical overload.
To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from the wall and unplug the dryer power cord from dryer wall receptacle. Make a voltage check with the volt/ohmmeter to determine if there is electrical power available to the dryer receptacle or to the dryer power cord.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
An obvious failure symptom is when you select a drying cycle and attempt to start the dryer, but it does not run. To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from its position and unplug the power cord.
If line voltage is indicated on the volt/- ohmmeter, check the dryer power cord as possible cause of the problem.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks on components. Read the rest of this entry »
The home repairmen should be very cautious when it comes to repair of the household refrigerator. They should be aware of the fact that they are dealing with a very expensive product, and one that contains a very delicately balanced cooling system. One small error could damage the system beyond repair.
Replacing a faulty compressor requires special vacuum and freon filling equipment that only professional technicians can handle.
The refrigerator cooling system is not like the family automobile air conditioner. You can’t simply attach a hose and add a little freon when it isn’t cooling properly. The refrigerator is a carefully balanced, sealed system, and normally should not have a freon-loss problem. If the unit is not cooling properly, and you have determined that the compressor is running, then there are several electrical components in the system that could be at fault. Read the rest of this entry »
The components of a typical household refrigerator are described below:
The heart of the refrigerator system is the compressor. It is made up of a pump and an electric motor and is contained in a sealed dome through which the refrigerant travels.
The starting relayis an electromechanical switch used to start the compressor motor. As electricity flows, the starting relay energizes the start winding of the refrigerator compressor motor until the motor is almost up to speed. At this point, the relay breaks the electrical circuit to the start winding and the compressor motor continues to run on its run (or motor) winding. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the Fridge, because the Fridge legs can easily damage the floor.
Open the Fridge door and locate the control console in the back of the Fridge cabinet. Remove the screws that secure the console cover. Remove the thermostat bracket. NOTE: Before removing the defrost timer from the Fridge cabinet, mark the wires, so they can be replaced correctly on the replacement part. Next, remove the screws that secure the defrost timer to the Fridge cabinet. Next, remove wiring harness and remove defrost timer. Read the rest of this entry »
There are three types of failures that are associated with the Fridge start capacitor. These failures are a defective capacitor. an open filament capacitor, and a grounded capacitor. You can check each of the above failures with the volt/ohmmeter. First, unplug the Fridge power cord. Using hand tools, remove the screws that secure the Fridge back and remove the starting capacitor from the compressor starting package. Look for traces of oil on or around the capacitor. If oil is present, the capacitor is defective.
CAUTION: A charged capacitor is extremely dangerous. A capacitor that has been removed from the compressor starting package will hold a charge indefinitely, even when not in use. If you touch the terminals of a charged capacitor, the built-up voltage could give a high-voltage shock that could be fatal. A flat-blade screwdriver across the terminals should be used to discharge a capacitor. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the fridge power cord before servicing the fridge. Move the fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the fridge, because the fridge legs can tear or damage the floor.
Using hand tools, remove the screws on all four sides of the fridge or freezer doors so that you can remove and discard the defective gasket(s). Before removing the old gasket, note carefully how the gasket is installed, because the replacement gasket has to be installed in the same position as the defective gasket that is removed. Before installing the replacement gasket, heat the rubber with a home hair dryer set on low heat. This will make the rubber more flexible,’ and easier to install on the fridge or freezer door. Install the replacement door gasket by mounting the lip of the gasket under the retainer plate. Read the rest of this entry »
You can check the evaporator fan motor by removing the plastic breaker strips on the left- and right-hand sides of the freezer section of the fridge.
NOTE: When removing the plastic breaker strips, it is recommended that they be pre-heated using a 40-to-60-watt light bulb. The light bulb is applied to each breaker strip for 5 to 7 minutes, to warm the pieces and make them more pliable and less subject to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific failure symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at the desired temperature. 2) Fridge compressor does not cycle OFF.
If the compressor motor runs continuously in an attempt to keep the fridge cool but the cabinet is still not cool enough, you will have to find the component or failure that is restricting the cooling capacity of the fridge. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at the desired temperature. 2) Fridge cools intermittently. 3) Food in freezer section thaws out and then refreezes or is only partially frozen.
When a fridge has intermittent cooling, it is known as “spot cooling.” Spot cooling is a situation where the fridge does not cool the food adequately for a period of time and then mysteriously returns to proper operating order. The erratic behavior in the fridge is caused by one of two things: a defective defrost timer, or a moisture restriction. First, check the defrost timer. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use care when moving the Fridge, because the metal feet can tear or damage the floor.
Open the freezer door and remove the plastic breaker strips at the front of freezer section. NOTE: When removing plastic breaker strips, heat them with a low- wattage (40-60) light bulb for 5 to 7 minutes. Heat will make the plastic more pliable and less susceptible to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Frost build-up on back wall in freezer section of Fridge. 2) Fridge ice maker not making ice. 3) Food not remaining at the desired temperature in both the Fridge and freezer sections.
When the Fridge starts to build up frost in the freezer section, you can assume that something is preventing the Fridge from going into the defrost cycle. You will have to check the components of the defrost circuit. Move the Fridge out from the wall and unplug the Fridge power cord. Check the components in the order listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific symptoms include: 1) Compressor motor runs all the time and does not cycle regularly. 2) Food freezing in the fridge section of the fridge. To find the cause of this problem, which is usually caused by a faulty thermostat, move the fridge out from the wall and unplug the fridge power cord.
Unplug the fridge power cord before servicing the fridge. Move the fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the fridge because the fridge feet can damage the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Water collecting on shelves and food, and under crisper pans in the refrigerator section. 2) Water running down back wall of refrigerator. To find the cause of the problem, which is probably a defrost drain obstruction, unplug the refrigerator power cord and open the refrigerator door.
As a no-frost refrigerator enters the defrost cycle, a defrost heater is energized and melts the frost and ice that has accumulated on the evaporator coil between defrost cycles. Read the rest of this entry »
