If an appliance needs inspection, unplug it from the socket. No, don’t just turn off the switch — there may still be some current flowing.
When working on switches, sockets or, simply said, things that cannot be removed from the energy source, switch off the power at the main switch on the electrical switch board. To be on the even safer side, always wear rubber-soled shoes (only during the repair); it will reduce the shock should all your safety precautions fail (turning you into a fruitcake as opposed to a full-blown vegetable). Read the rest of this entry »
Have you ever used an electrical lawn-mower, or seen someone use it? Enough said. Cords on appliances also fray and sometimes a loose connection is the simple result of wear and tear. So somewhere along the line you may have to repair the wiring of an appliance or replace a plug that is no longer working. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Water on floor near dishwasher. 2) During dishwasher cycle, water accumulates on left or right side of dishwasher lower panel.
To locate the cause of the problem, remove lower panel and check for broken plumbing drain connections, water inlet valve, broken or cracked hoses (drain and inlet), or drive motor and pump assembly motor seal. If a hose or a faulty part is found, replace it. Check that door is closing properly. Read the rest of this entry »
Table lamps, floor standards, bedside lights and other portable lights can have dimmer control using any one of three methods. One method is a dimmer socket adaptor which plugs into the standard 13 A socket-outlet. This unit has two 2-pin sockets and is especially suitable for controlling two bedside lamps in a twin-bedded or a double-bedded room. The control knob on the adaptor dims both lamps at the same light intensity; they cannot be controlled independently.
Another method uses a line-cord dimmer which is wired into the flex of the lamp. The dimmer can be a standard wall type mounted on a plastic box and placed on the arm of the chair, table, desk, or any other chosen position. Alternatively, it can be a mini-dimmer switch resembling a torpedo table lamp switch. This type is especially suitable for the individual control of bedside lamps. Read the rest of this entry »
Don’ts
Capacitors used for motor starting may have metal or plastic outer casings with an insulated top with two terminals. Internally the two terminals are connected to two sheets of metal foil with an insulator between. This package of large surface area is rolled into a cylinder which fits into the shell of the capacitor. As the voltage supplied to one terminal is alternating (at 50 times per second), so does the polarity of its connected foil. An opposite movement of electrons is induced in the other foil, even though they are insulated electrically. This causes a delay in the electrical path, and this, in the case of an asynchronous induction motor, gives the outof-phase feed to the start winding. Read the rest of this entry »
Aschematic diagram of the internal workings of a pod-type thermostat. This type is used in appliances that have a variable temperature control. It consists of an oil-filled pod connected to the switch by a capillary tube. When the oil in the pod is heated or cooled, it expands or contracts in the tube and operates a diaphragm. The diaphragm acts on the switchgear thus breaking the circuit and in this instance, ‘making’ the other. The cooling oil contracts, pulling the switch the opposite way — back to its original position; the process repeats if temperatures change. Read the rest of this entry »
Isolate the appliance before removing covers or panels for any reason. All tests for continuity should be carried out with a battery operated test meter only.
The most likely cause of overheating will be a failure of the thermostat contact points or sealed pressure system. In such a case you will need to fit a new compatible replacement unit.
Slow initial heating-up times or uneven heat distribution within the oven is usually caused by the failure of one element. Simple testing of the element will highlight the faulty item.
Failure to heat up at all may be either the thermostat or elements. As elements are the easier of the two to check for continuity, a simple process of elimination will indicate where the fault lies. Read the rest of this entry »
The electric iron used to be a simple appliance consisting of an electrical heating element pressed on to the sole plate of the iron and controlled by a simple variable bi-metal thermostat. Its rugged construction and lack of gadgetry made it a long-lasting appliance. Irons have changed greatly in recent years, with attention to styling and reduction in weight making them much more attractive and easier to use. In addition, many irons now have a variable steam facility, a steam release valve and a plain cold water spray. Read the rest of this entry »
Coffee filters have become extremely popular in the United Kingdom in recent years, largely replacing percolators. Although they vary in design, they are fairly straightforward in the way they work.
When water is added to the cold-water compartment, it flows through a hole in the base into a silicone tube containing a non-return valve. The tube feeds water to a metal boiler tube in the metal base plate. This is similar to an iron sole plate and contains a heating element which, when switched on, quickly heats the water in the tube causing it to rise towards the outlet end of the system. The outlet is positioned over a holder containing a filter filled with ground coffee. Hot water is ejected from the tube and filters through the coffee to the jug. This continues as long as there is water in the cold-water compartment and power is supplied to the heater. Read the rest of this entry »
