All automatic washers employ a 110-volt, A/C (alternating current) electrical power source. This power source is used not only to power the washer drive motor, but also the various electrical components such as timer, solenoids, valves, water level control, and switches. Listed below are components and their functions, which will help you in understanding, diagnosing, and repairing common electrical and mechanical failures. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer has burning smell when running or labors excessively when running. 2) Wash water does not drain from the machine either at the end of the cycle or when the washer enters pump out phase of the cycle. To find the cause of the problem, remove the washer drain hose from the drain standpipe and check for a kinked hose and start the washer. If water now pumps out of the washer, the problem is a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out of the washer, the problem is either the washer self -cleaning filter, timer assembly, a filter trap restriction, or a non- operating water pump. Read the rest of this entry »
If you have determined that the water inlet valve is in working order, next check the outer tub post seal as the cause of the water leak. When diagnosing a water leak in a washer outer tub, you must first fill the tub with warm or hot water and run the washer for ten to fifteen minutes. When making this check, be patient because the washer may or may not leak the first time you check it. Look for water either at the front, left or right hand side or at back of the washer. Washers use a seal (or seals) around the tub center post. As hot or warm water enters the washer outer tub, the hot water softens the tub seal, which allows water to leak on the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer begins to agitate or spin and water spills or leaks onto the floor. 2) After the washer has completed its cycle, water appears on the laundry room floor. To locate the cause of the problem, first look behind the washer at the wash station stand pipe. Check the washer water inlet valve, which has two hoses (hot-cold) attached, for deterioration of the hoses. If a hose has a leak, replace it.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions. Read the rest of this entry »
The drive motor start and run windings can be checked with a volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt! ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe on the white lead of the drive motor terminal block, the remaining probe is placed on the blue lead of the drive motor terminal block. The volt/ohmmeter should show continuity (or approximately four ohms resistance) if the motor winding is good. No continuity would suggest an open or burned-out winding. If the drive motor has a humming sound when the motor tries to start, the start switch must be checked. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) The washer won’t complete the wash or spin cycle. 2) The washer has a burning smell during the wash and spin cycle. 3) The washer leaves water in the tub at the end of the cycle.
Check the washer power cord for a possible loose connection at the wall plug receptacle.
Check to see if the wall receptacle is defective or has burned or oxidized contacts. If so, the repair should be made by a licensed electrician. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
If the washer is not spinning, the next check is of the washer control magnet. Washers use a control magnet, an electrical-mechanical component, to enable the gearcase to shift into the spin cycle. You can easily check the control magnet by using the volt/ohmmeter set on the RX-10 scale. With the volt/ohmmeter on RX-10 scale, connect the probes to both terminals of the control magnet. NOTE: When checking a suspected faulty control magnet, remove the wires from the washer wiring harness to avoid an inaccurate reading. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.
Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.
Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer fills with water, and motor starts to run, but the washer agitator does not turn in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, or 2) At end of cycle, clothes are gritty and soapy with water.
To find the cause of the problem, first check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall socket. Read the rest of this entry »
