When the solenoid is energized, the plunger is pulled upward by magnetic force of the solenoid coil, and the pin travels back and forth in the upper slot of the spin cam bar. This action pulls the spin cam bar backward from the basket clutch shaft, which allows the bar to slide downward toward the clutch lining. Read the rest of this entry »
Although the homeowner will probably never do a major teardown of a washer gearcase, it is worthwhile to understand its function. The gear train of the automatic washer consists of a sector gear, connecting rod or possibly the rack and pinion gear type. In this type drive, the pinion gear drives a larger main - drive gear. A connecting rod is attached to both ends of the main - drive gear and the sector gear, which pivots on a stud through an approximate 180 - degree arc. A more common type is the sector gear. This gear meshes with the agitator gear to accomplish the washer oscillation. Read the rest of this entry »
All automatic washers employ a 110-volt, A/C (alternating current) electrical power source. This power source is used not only to power the washer drive motor, but also the various electrical components such as timer, solenoids, valves, water level control, and switches. Listed below are components and their functions, which will help you in understanding, diagnosing, and repairing common electrical and mechanical failures. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer has burning smell when running or labors excessively when running. 2) Wash water does not drain from the machine either at the end of the cycle or when the washer enters pump out phase of the cycle. To find the cause of the problem, remove the washer drain hose from the drain standpipe and check for a kinked hose and start the washer. If water now pumps out of the washer, the problem is a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out of the washer, the problem is either the washer self -cleaning filter, timer assembly, a filter trap restriction, or a non- operating water pump. Read the rest of this entry »
If you have determined that the water inlet valve is in working order, next check the outer tub post seal as the cause of the water leak. When diagnosing a water leak in a washer outer tub, you must first fill the tub with warm or hot water and run the washer for ten to fifteen minutes. When making this check, be patient because the washer may or may not leak the first time you check it. Look for water either at the front, left or right hand side or at back of the washer. Washers use a seal (or seals) around the tub center post. As hot or warm water enters the washer outer tub, the hot water softens the tub seal, which allows water to leak on the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer begins to agitate or spin and water spills or leaks onto the floor. 2) After the washer has completed its cycle, water appears on the laundry room floor. To locate the cause of the problem, first look behind the washer at the wash station stand pipe. Check the washer water inlet valve, which has two hoses (hot-cold) attached, for deterioration of the hoses. If a hose has a leak, replace it.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions. Read the rest of this entry »
The drive motor start and run windings can be checked with a volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt! ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe on the white lead of the drive motor terminal block, the remaining probe is placed on the blue lead of the drive motor terminal block. The volt/ohmmeter should show continuity (or approximately four ohms resistance) if the motor winding is good. No continuity would suggest an open or burned-out winding. If the drive motor has a humming sound when the motor tries to start, the start switch must be checked. Read the rest of this entry »
If the timer contact terminals show continuity and you find no voltage at the temperature selector switch, then you must make a continuity check for burned or broken wires from the timer assembly to the temperature selector switch. With the volt/ohmmeter dial set on the RX-1 scale, disconnect one wire from the terminal of the selector switch and attach a probe. Touch the remaining probe to the other end of same wire. If the wire you are checking is good, continuity (0 ohms) will be measured on the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
If the washer is not spinning, the next check is of the washer control magnet. Washers use a control magnet, an electrical-mechanical component, to enable the gearcase to shift into the spin cycle. You can easily check the control magnet by using the volt/ohmmeter set on the RX-10 scale. With the volt/ohmmeter on RX-10 scale, connect the probes to both terminals of the control magnet. NOTE: When checking a suspected faulty control magnet, remove the wires from the washer wiring harness to avoid an inaccurate reading. Read the rest of this entry »
