Turn down the temperature of your hot water at the central heating boiler, at the immersion tank (if your water is heated by electricity), or on your instant water heater. Don’t waste energy heating water only to have to add cold water so that it is not too hot to use! 60°C / 140°F should do it. Read the rest of this entry »
Renewable energy is energy produced by a source that continually renews itself. Well-known sources are the sun, moving water, wind and plant materials. This energy can be used for space heating and hot water heating, and to produce electricity for your home. Read the rest of this entry »
About 20 percent of the energy used in the home goes to heat water. If your water heater feels warm to the touch, it probably needs to be insulated. Fiberglass blankets for water heaters are available in kits at most hardware and building supply stores, or you can use leftover insulation. Just remember not to cover the top of a gas water heater or you’ll block the air to the flue. Also, be careful not to block the airflow to the gas burner at the bottom of the heater. Read the rest of this entry »
As with any other kind of solar heating, solar water heaters are at an advantage when planned for a new home, because the design can incorporate them efficiently.
In the passive house at lower right, for example, the water heater’s design benefited from the house’s design flexibility, and vice versa, to their mutual advantage. The dormer on which the collectors are mounted lifts the roofline of the house, allowing extra headroom in the second-floor family room behind it. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.
Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.
Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”
To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.
Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts. Read the rest of this entry »
This valve assembly is probably the most important component of the gas burner assembly. The valve assembly controls the flow of gas to the main burner from the gas supply line.
Cycling thermostats are bi-metal devices or thermo-discs that are designed to cut the main burner OFF when a pre-determined temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. There is no adjustment of the temperature response of these thermostats. Read the rest of this entry »
This failure is normally attributed to a loss of electrical power or an electrical overload.
To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from the wall and unplug the dryer power cord from dryer wall receptacle. Make a voltage check with the volt/ohmmeter to determine if there is electrical power available to the dryer receptacle or to the dryer power cord.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
An obvious failure symptom is when you select a drying cycle and attempt to start the dryer, but it does not run. To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from its position and unplug the power cord.
If line voltage is indicated on the volt/- ohmmeter, check the dryer power cord as possible cause of the problem.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks on components. Read the rest of this entry »
These operate at elv (extra low voltages) between 3 and 12 V. The single bell, buzzer and many models of chimes are powered by dry batteries but the more powerful chimes and intricate bell systems have to operate from mains transformers. Usually a transformer is preferable for any bell or chimes. Where an illuminated bell push is used a mains transformer is essential as the lamp of the push would exhaust a battery in a day or so. Read the rest of this entry »
Move the refrigerator out from the wall. Unplug the refrigerator power cord, and turn OFF the water supply to the icemaker.
Using hand tools, remove screws and discard the defective water supply valve. When installing a water supply valve on the water heater, install only on the cold-water side of the water heater. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include either: 1) Refrigerator temperature too warm to make ice. 2) No water getting to icemaker mold. 3) Icemaker not ejecting the frozen ice.
For a compact icemaker to operate properly, the refrigerator freezer compartment must be maintained at 10 degrees F or lower. The design of the icemaker is such that the icemaker will not eject the ice until it is frozen hard. Read the rest of this entry »
Socket-outlets situated off the main route of the cable do not have to be connected to the actual ring cable. Instead they are usually supplied from spur cables branching off the ring. These spurs are wired in the same size cable as that used for the ring.
Fixed appliances which may be connected to a ring circuit include skirting heaters, wall heaters, small water heaters and any non-portable electrical appliances having individual loadings of not more than 3000 W(13 A approx.). Read the rest of this entry »
A radial power circuit is the name given to a circuit supplying a number of 13 A socket-outlets and fixed appliances using one cable which is not wired in the form of a ring but terminates at the last outlet.
The permitted number of socket-outlets (and fixed appliances) depends on the current rating of the circuit which can be either 20 A, wired in 2.5 mm2 cable, or 30 A wired in 4 mm2 cable. The number of socket-outlets and fixed appliances which can be served by a 20 A radial circuit depends also on the location of the circuit and whether the outlets are confined to one room. Read the rest of this entry »
Just because George Bush doesn’t give two hoots about global warming doesn’t mean you have to follow suit — do your bit for the environment and save power whenever you can — it is usually possible to do so without great personal inconvenience, and you will save money in the process.
Where the white meter tariff is in operation it can be an advantage to heat the full contents of a tank overnight when the cheaper rate for electricity is in force and switch on the short element wizen additional hot water is needed.
This normally requires two circuits for the immersion heater installation. One circuit is used for the night rate supply, when time controlled in conjunction with night storage heaters, this supplying the long element of a dual immersion heater or the lower immersion heater of a two- immersion heater arrangement. Read the rest of this entry »
Electric heating of water can be carried out in a variety of ways. These include small capacity heaters fitted above the sink, instantaneous sink heaters or immersion heaters in the hot water tank.
Small storage water heaters fitted over the sink or washbasin having capacities of up to about 3 gallons and electrical loadings of 1 to 3 kW are usually supplied from the ring circuit by means of a spur. Except in a bathroom, the outlet can be a fused plug and switched socket-outlet, preferably with neon indicator. Read the rest of this entry »
Most labour-saving household appliances contain an electric motor of some description. They are the workhorse of these appliances and most of them are capable of coping with the work loads inflicted upon them. However, some motors, either through poor design or as a result of manufacturers’ cost limitations, are inadequate for the job they are required to do. Adequate or not, at some point it is almost inevitable that they will fail or simply wear out. To delay this, use the appliance with some care and attention, be aware of its limitations and carry out regular inspection and servicing. This will prevent small problems escalating into major ones
Not only do the sizes of motors vary greatly between products, so too do the ways in which they work. To diagnose faults successfully and service or repair appliances, a working knowledge of motors is essential. The following provide a basic introduction to the various types, a description of how they work, the appliances in which each may be found and their particular advantages and drawbacks. Specific problems can be found on individual appliances. Read the rest of this entry »
The information given here also applies to the grills on many cookers. This is a simple way to ascertain if the control is faulty. Short circuit failures on elements may damage regulators in which case, if you are in any doubt, renew it.
The following test is for a single circuit application, that is, a single element. For double regulators, that is, a double element, the same procedure will be required on both single and double operations of the switch. From off position an anticlockwise turn will put into circuit one element (usually the inner), a clockwise turn from the off position will put into circuit both inner and outer. Check that double regulators operate independently on a half turn each. For singles, use ony a full turn. Read the rest of this entry »
Throughout this post, references are made to meters and their use in continuity testing of individual parts of the appliances and their connecting wires. All testing and checking for ‘open’ (not allowing for current flow) or `closed’ circuit (allowing current to flow) must be carried out using a battery-powered multimeter or test meter. Testing should never be carried out on live items under any circumstances. Appliances must be disconnected from the mains supply. Read the rest of this entry »
