Although the homeowner will probably never do a major teardown of a washer gearcase, it is worthwhile to understand its function. The gear train of the automatic washer consists of a sector gear, connecting rod or possibly the rack and pinion gear type. In this type drive, the pinion gear drives a larger main - drive gear. A connecting rod is attached to both ends of the main - drive gear and the sector gear, which pivots on a stud through an approximate 180 - degree arc. A more common type is the sector gear. This gear meshes with the agitator gear to accomplish the washer oscillation. Read the rest of this entry »
All automatic washers employ a 110-volt, A/C (alternating current) electrical power source. This power source is used not only to power the washer drive motor, but also the various electrical components such as timer, solenoids, valves, water level control, and switches. Listed below are components and their functions, which will help you in understanding, diagnosing, and repairing common electrical and mechanical failures. Read the rest of this entry »
A final condition that could cause weak pump-out is a loose drive belt that doesn’t rotate the water pump. A sure and quick check that involves no hand tools is to turn the timer knob to a cycle where there is a motor function such as spin or agitate. With the timer dial on spin cycle, the washer should begin to spin the clothes. If you hear the sound of the motor running, but the washer tub is not moving or attempting to spin the clothes, then it can be assumed that the washer drive belt is slipping on the drive motor pulley or the belt is broken. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer has burning smell when running or labors excessively when running. 2) Wash water does not drain from the machine either at the end of the cycle or when the washer enters pump out phase of the cycle. To find the cause of the problem, remove the washer drain hose from the drain standpipe and check for a kinked hose and start the washer. If water now pumps out of the washer, the problem is a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out of the washer, the problem is either the washer self -cleaning filter, timer assembly, a filter trap restriction, or a non- operating water pump. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) The washer won’t complete the wash or spin cycle. 2) The washer has a burning smell during the wash and spin cycle. 3) The washer leaves water in the tub at the end of the cycle.
Check the washer power cord for a possible loose connection at the wall plug receptacle.
Check to see if the wall receptacle is defective or has burned or oxidized contacts. If so, the repair should be made by a licensed electrician. Read the rest of this entry »
If the timer contact terminals show continuity and you find no voltage at the temperature selector switch, then you must make a continuity check for burned or broken wires from the timer assembly to the temperature selector switch. With the volt/ohmmeter dial set on the RX-1 scale, disconnect one wire from the terminal of the selector switch and attach a probe. Touch the remaining probe to the other end of same wire. If the wire you are checking is good, continuity (0 ohms) will be measured on the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.
Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.
Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”
To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.
Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts. Read the rest of this entry »
This valve assembly is probably the most important component of the gas burner assembly. The valve assembly controls the flow of gas to the main burner from the gas supply line.
Cycling thermostats are bi-metal devices or thermo-discs that are designed to cut the main burner OFF when a pre-determined temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. There is no adjustment of the temperature response of these thermostats. Read the rest of this entry »
