The drive motor start and run windings can be checked with a volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt! ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe on the white lead of the drive motor terminal block, the remaining probe is placed on the blue lead of the drive motor terminal block. The volt/ohmmeter should show continuity (or approximately four ohms resistance) if the motor winding is good. No continuity would suggest an open or burned-out winding. If the drive motor has a humming sound when the motor tries to start, the start switch must be checked. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.
Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.
Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure. Read the rest of this entry »
Next, check the dryer cycling thermostats as the possible cause for no heat in the dryer. The types of thermostats most commonly used in dryers (gas or electric), are the bimetal fixedand adjustable thermostats. Their primary function is to break the circuit to the gas main burner or the heating element when a certain temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. You can easily check these thermostats by removing one lead from the suspected thermostat. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe of the volt/- ohmmeter on each terminal of the thermostat. You should see a continuity reading on the volt/- ohmmeter scale of approximately 0 ohms, or full- meter deflection. If the thermostat does not show continuity, replace the defective thermostat to restore the dryer to proper operating order. Read the rest of this entry »
If the heating element tests OK, you should next check all the electrical wiring from the dryer timer assembly, thermostats, and drive motor. Electrical wiring in a dryer becomes brittle and burned because of the excessive heat. To locate defects in the wiring, use a volt/ohmmeter to make continuity checks on wires that you suspect are faulty.
The problem of no heat in the gas dryer is much the same as the electric dryer, except that instead of checking for a possible defective heating element, you must check the gas ignition circuit. A sure and simple test is check voltage to the gas burner wiring harness. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Clothes are not dry at end of cycle. 2) The dryer timer assembly is not advancing in the cycle properly.
To find the cause of the problem, first move the dryer out from the wall and remove the vent hose. With the dryer running, place your hand on the dryer exhaust duct to determine if there is any hot air being discharged. If the air is cold, you will have to make a line voltage check at the dryer receptacle to determine whether full 220-to-240-volt power is available. Read the rest of this entry »
An obvious failure symptom is when you select a drying cycle and attempt to start the dryer, but it does not run. To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from its position and unplug the power cord.
If line voltage is indicated on the volt/- ohmmeter, check the dryer power cord as possible cause of the problem.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks on components. Read the rest of this entry »
There are three types of failures that are associated with the Fridge start capacitor. These failures are a defective capacitor. an open filament capacitor, and a grounded capacitor. You can check each of the above failures with the volt/ohmmeter. First, unplug the Fridge power cord. Using hand tools, remove the screws that secure the Fridge back and remove the starting capacitor from the compressor starting package. Look for traces of oil on or around the capacitor. If oil is present, the capacitor is defective.
CAUTION: A charged capacitor is extremely dangerous. A capacitor that has been removed from the compressor starting package will hold a charge indefinitely, even when not in use. If you touch the terminals of a charged capacitor, the built-up voltage could give a high-voltage shock that could be fatal. A flat-blade screwdriver across the terminals should be used to discharge a capacitor. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Frost build-up on back wall in freezer section of Fridge. 2) Fridge ice maker not making ice. 3) Food not remaining at the desired temperature in both the Fridge and freezer sections.
When the Fridge starts to build up frost in the freezer section, you can assume that something is preventing the Fridge from going into the defrost cycle. You will have to check the components of the defrost circuit. Move the Fridge out from the wall and unplug the Fridge power cord. Check the components in the order listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
