Specific failure symptoms include: 1) An unusual smell in the laundry room. 2) The top of the dryer is very hot to the touch. 3) The clothes are extremely hot and wrinkled at the end of the cycle.
When a dryer is overheating, the first concern should be whether the heater element is cycling (turning ON and OFF). An easy check is to set the heat selector to a heat position and turn the timer to the ON position. With the dryer running, turn the overhead lights OFF. Check the back of the dryer (with the back panel removed). On left-hand side of cabinet there should be a visible glow from the heater box. This glow would indicate that the dryer is heating and has the required voltage. After a period of four to six minutes, the heater should cycle off and the glow should fade. If not, then probably the dryer cycling thermostats or adjustable thermostat is not functioning properly. You will have to replace the defective thermostat(s) in order for the dryer to operate properly. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord. Using hand tools, remove the icemaker from the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the front cover from the icemaker. Remove the front component plate that is secured to the ice maker support housing. Remove the screws that secure the cycling thermostat to the icemaker support.
Remove electrical wires from the terminals on the support housing, and carefully remove the thermostat. Read the rest of this entry »
Next in line after the water supply valve is the water inlet valve, usually located at the back of the machine near the bottom. The role of the water inlet valve is to release supply water from the supply line so that it can enter the icemaker mold cavity. However, the valve’s internal components can eventually become worn out from the corrosive properties and algae in the water, and fail to supply water to the mold cavity. Check the water inlet valve to see if it is electrically releasing the water on command to the mold cavity. Read the rest of this entry »