If the heating element tests OK, you should next check all the electrical wiring from the dryer timer assembly, thermostats, and drive motor. Electrical wiring in a dryer becomes brittle and burned because of the excessive heat. To locate defects in the wiring, use a volt/ohmmeter to make continuity checks on wires that you suspect are faulty.
The problem of no heat in the gas dryer is much the same as the electric dryer, except that instead of checking for a possible defective heating element, you must check the gas ignition circuit. A sure and simple test is check voltage to the gas burner wiring harness. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the power cord or gas supply before servicing the clothes dryer. Move clothes dryer out from the wall. Exercise care when moving the dryer from its original position because the dryer legs can easily tear holes in your floor.
Remove screws to dryer top. Lift the top of the dryer by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver between the cabinet and the top of the dryer. Remove the screws that secure door switch to dryer front panel and discard the door switch. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) An unusual smell in the laundry room. 2) The top of the dryer is very hot to the touch. 3) The clothes are extremely hot and wrinkled at the end of the cycle.
When a dryer is overheating, the first concern should be whether the heater element is cycling (turning ON and OFF). An easy check is to set the heat selector to a heat position and turn the timer to the ON position. With the dryer running, turn the overhead lights OFF. Check the back of the dryer (with the back panel removed). On left-hand side of cabinet there should be a visible glow from the heater box. This glow would indicate that the dryer is heating and has the required voltage. After a period of four to six minutes, the heater should cycle off and the glow should fade. If not, then probably the dryer cycling thermostats or adjustable thermostat is not functioning properly. You will have to replace the defective thermostat(s) in order for the dryer to operate properly. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the Fridge, because the Fridge legs can easily damage the floor.
Open the Fridge door and locate the control console in the back of the Fridge cabinet. Remove the screws that secure the console cover. Remove the thermostat bracket. NOTE: Before removing the defrost timer from the Fridge cabinet, mark the wires, so they can be replaced correctly on the replacement part. Next, remove the screws that secure the defrost timer to the Fridge cabinet. Next, remove wiring harness and remove defrost timer. Read the rest of this entry »
There are three types of failures that are associated with the Fridge start capacitor. These failures are a defective capacitor. an open filament capacitor, and a grounded capacitor. You can check each of the above failures with the volt/ohmmeter. First, unplug the Fridge power cord. Using hand tools, remove the screws that secure the Fridge back and remove the starting capacitor from the compressor starting package. Look for traces of oil on or around the capacitor. If oil is present, the capacitor is defective.
CAUTION: A charged capacitor is extremely dangerous. A capacitor that has been removed from the compressor starting package will hold a charge indefinitely, even when not in use. If you touch the terminals of a charged capacitor, the built-up voltage could give a high-voltage shock that could be fatal. A flat-blade screwdriver across the terminals should be used to discharge a capacitor. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the fridge power cord before servicing the fridge. Move the fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the fridge, because the fridge legs can tear or damage the floor.
Using hand tools, remove the screws on all four sides of the fridge or freezer doors so that you can remove and discard the defective gasket(s). Before removing the old gasket, note carefully how the gasket is installed, because the replacement gasket has to be installed in the same position as the defective gasket that is removed. Before installing the replacement gasket, heat the rubber with a home hair dryer set on low heat. This will make the rubber more flexible,’ and easier to install on the fridge or freezer door. Install the replacement door gasket by mounting the lip of the gasket under the retainer plate. Read the rest of this entry »
You can check the evaporator fan motor by removing the plastic breaker strips on the left- and right-hand sides of the freezer section of the fridge.
NOTE: When removing the plastic breaker strips, it is recommended that they be pre-heated using a 40-to-60-watt light bulb. The light bulb is applied to each breaker strip for 5 to 7 minutes, to warm the pieces and make them more pliable and less subject to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Move the refrigerator out from the wall. Unplug the refrigerator power cord, and turn OFF the water supply to the icemaker.
Using hand tools, remove screws and discard the defective water supply valve. When installing a water supply valve on the water heater, install only on the cold-water side of the water heater. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord, open the refrigerator freezer door, locate the compact icemaker and place your hand on the ejector blade. Turn it slowly in a clockwise direction. If the icemaker ejector blade continues to turn unaided, the problem is a defective icemaker holding switch. The icemaker holding switch can be checked with the volt/ohmmeter. First, set the ohmmeter to the RX-1 scale. Next, place the probes of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminals of the holding switch. With the switch button depressed, you should see full-scale deflection (continuity), on the scale of the volt/ohmmeter. No reading on the ohmmeter means the holding switch is open and must be replaced. Read the rest of this entry »