The home repairmen should be very cautious when it comes to repair of the household refrigerator. They should be aware of the fact that they are dealing with a very expensive product, and one that contains a very delicately balanced cooling system. One small error could damage the system beyond repair.
Replacing a faulty compressor requires special vacuum and freon filling equipment that only professional technicians can handle.
The refrigerator cooling system is not like the family automobile air conditioner. You can’t simply attach a hose and add a little freon when it isn’t cooling properly. The refrigerator is a carefully balanced, sealed system, and normally should not have a freon-loss problem. If the unit is not cooling properly, and you have determined that the compressor is running, then there are several electrical components in the system that could be at fault. Read the rest of this entry »
The components of a typical household refrigerator are described below:
The heart of the refrigerator system is the compressor. It is made up of a pump and an electric motor and is contained in a sealed dome through which the refrigerant travels.
The starting relayis an electromechanical switch used to start the compressor motor. As electricity flows, the starting relay energizes the start winding of the refrigerator compressor motor until the motor is almost up to speed. At this point, the relay breaks the electrical circuit to the start winding and the compressor motor continues to run on its run (or motor) winding. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the Fridge, because the Fridge legs can easily damage the floor.
Open the Fridge door and locate the control console in the back of the Fridge cabinet. Remove the screws that secure the console cover. Remove the thermostat bracket. NOTE: Before removing the defrost timer from the Fridge cabinet, mark the wires, so they can be replaced correctly on the replacement part. Next, remove the screws that secure the defrost timer to the Fridge cabinet. Next, remove wiring harness and remove defrost timer. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at the desired temperature. 2) Fridge cools intermittently. 3) Food in freezer section thaws out and then refreezes or is only partially frozen.
When a fridge has intermittent cooling, it is known as “spot cooling.” Spot cooling is a situation where the fridge does not cool the food adequately for a period of time and then mysteriously returns to proper operating order. The erratic behavior in the fridge is caused by one of two things: a defective defrost timer, or a moisture restriction. First, check the defrost timer. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use care when moving the Fridge, because the metal feet can tear or damage the floor.
Open the freezer door and remove the plastic breaker strips at the front of freezer section. NOTE: When removing plastic breaker strips, heat them with a low- wattage (40-60) light bulb for 5 to 7 minutes. Heat will make the plastic more pliable and less susceptible to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Frost build-up on back wall in freezer section of Fridge. 2) Fridge ice maker not making ice. 3) Food not remaining at the desired temperature in both the Fridge and freezer sections.
When the Fridge starts to build up frost in the freezer section, you can assume that something is preventing the Fridge from going into the defrost cycle. You will have to check the components of the defrost circuit. Move the Fridge out from the wall and unplug the Fridge power cord. Check the components in the order listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Water collecting on shelves and food, and under crisper pans in the refrigerator section. 2) Water running down back wall of refrigerator. To find the cause of the problem, which is probably a defrost drain obstruction, unplug the refrigerator power cord and open the refrigerator door.
As a no-frost refrigerator enters the defrost cycle, a defrost heater is energized and melts the frost and ice that has accumulated on the evaporator coil between defrost cycles. Read the rest of this entry »
