Although the homeowner will probably never do a major teardown of a washer gearcase, it is worthwhile to understand its function. The gear train of the automatic washer consists of a sector gear, connecting rod or possibly the rack and pinion gear type. In this type drive, the pinion gear drives a larger main - drive gear. A connecting rod is attached to both ends of the main - drive gear and the sector gear, which pivots on a stud through an approximate 180 - degree arc. A more common type is the sector gear. This gear meshes with the agitator gear to accomplish the washer oscillation. Read the rest of this entry »
The drive motor start and run windings can be checked with a volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt! ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe on the white lead of the drive motor terminal block, the remaining probe is placed on the blue lead of the drive motor terminal block. The volt/ohmmeter should show continuity (or approximately four ohms resistance) if the motor winding is good. No continuity would suggest an open or burned-out winding. If the drive motor has a humming sound when the motor tries to start, the start switch must be checked. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) The washer won’t complete the wash or spin cycle. 2) The washer has a burning smell during the wash and spin cycle. 3) The washer leaves water in the tub at the end of the cycle.
Check the washer power cord for a possible loose connection at the wall plug receptacle.
Check to see if the wall receptacle is defective or has burned or oxidized contacts. If so, the repair should be made by a licensed electrician. Read the rest of this entry »
This valve assembly is probably the most important component of the gas burner assembly. The valve assembly controls the flow of gas to the main burner from the gas supply line.
Cycling thermostats are bi-metal devices or thermo-discs that are designed to cut the main burner OFF when a pre-determined temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. There is no adjustment of the temperature response of these thermostats. Read the rest of this entry »
If the heating element tests OK, you should next check all the electrical wiring from the dryer timer assembly, thermostats, and drive motor. Electrical wiring in a dryer becomes brittle and burned because of the excessive heat. To locate defects in the wiring, use a volt/ohmmeter to make continuity checks on wires that you suspect are faulty.
The problem of no heat in the gas dryer is much the same as the electric dryer, except that instead of checking for a possible defective heating element, you must check the gas ignition circuit. A sure and simple test is check voltage to the gas burner wiring harness. Read the rest of this entry »
This failure is normally attributed to a loss of electrical power or an electrical overload.
To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from the wall and unplug the dryer power cord from dryer wall receptacle. Make a voltage check with the volt/ohmmeter to determine if there is electrical power available to the dryer receptacle or to the dryer power cord.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the power cord or gas supply before servicing the clothes dryer. Move clothes dryer out from the wall. Exercise care when moving the dryer from its original position because the dryer legs can easily tear holes in your floor.
Remove screws to dryer top. Lift the top of the dryer by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver between the cabinet and the top of the dryer. Remove the screws that secure door switch to dryer front panel and discard the door switch. Read the rest of this entry »
An obvious failure symptom is when you select a drying cycle and attempt to start the dryer, but it does not run. To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from its position and unplug the power cord.
If line voltage is indicated on the volt/- ohmmeter, check the dryer power cord as possible cause of the problem.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks on components. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) The clothes dryer is running longer than normal. 2) The clothes are extremely damp at the end of the drying cycle.
Although the problem could be that the automatic washer is not spinning your clothes properly, in most cases the problem is inadequate air movement in the dryer.
Before blaming the dryer, you should check the automatic washer. At the end of the spin cycle, open the washer lid and check to see if there is excess water left in the washer basket. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific problems include: 1) The clothes dryer has excessive noise while running. 2) The clothes dryer stops in cycle. 3) The clothes are extremely damp when removed from the dryer drum at end of cycle.
All of the above symptoms are related to mechanical problems which develop from years of use.
Check the clothes dryer drum belt for excessive play or a stretched condition. A drum belt that is excessively stretched will cause the idler pulley to bang against the drum, resulting in excessive noise. In order to restore the dryer to proper operating order, you will have to replace the drive belt. Read the rest of this entry »
