Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Frost build-up on back wall in freezer section of Fridge. 2) Fridge ice maker not making ice. 3) Food not remaining at the desired temperature in both the Fridge and freezer sections.
When the Fridge starts to build up frost in the freezer section, you can assume that something is preventing the Fridge from going into the defrost cycle. You will have to check the components of the defrost circuit. Move the Fridge out from the wall and unplug the Fridge power cord. Check the components in the order listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific symptoms include: 1) Compressor motor runs all the time and does not cycle regularly. 2) Food freezing in the fridge section of the fridge. To find the cause of this problem, which is usually caused by a faulty thermostat, move the fridge out from the wall and unplug the fridge power cord.
Unplug the fridge power cord before servicing the fridge. Move the fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the fridge because the fridge feet can damage the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
The water supply that is controlled by a water inlet valve enters the mold cavity of the compact icemaker. The water then freezes in the icemaker mold. An electric heater thaws the frozen ice crescents so that they can be ejected from the mold. An electric motor then drives an ejector blade through a cam assembly, which frees the released crescents. The crescents revolve in a clockwise rotation and tumble into the ice storage bin. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord. Using hand tools, remove the icemaker from the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the front cover from the icemaker. Remove the front component plate that is secured to the ice maker support housing. Remove the screws that secure the cycling thermostat to the icemaker support.
Remove electrical wires from the terminals on the support housing, and carefully remove the thermostat. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord, open the refrigerator freezer door, locate the compact icemaker and place your hand on the ejector blade. Turn it slowly in a clockwise direction. If the icemaker ejector blade continues to turn unaided, the problem is a defective icemaker holding switch. The icemaker holding switch can be checked with the volt/ohmmeter. First, set the ohmmeter to the RX-1 scale. Next, place the probes of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminals of the holding switch. With the switch button depressed, you should see full-scale deflection (continuity), on the scale of the volt/ohmmeter. No reading on the ohmmeter means the holding switch is open and must be replaced. Read the rest of this entry »
Next in line after the water supply valve is the water inlet valve, usually located at the back of the machine near the bottom. The role of the water inlet valve is to release supply water from the supply line so that it can enter the icemaker mold cavity. However, the valve’s internal components can eventually become worn out from the corrosive properties and algae in the water, and fail to supply water to the mold cavity. Check the water inlet valve to see if it is electrically releasing the water on command to the mold cavity. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include either: 1) Refrigerator temperature too warm to make ice. 2) No water getting to icemaker mold. 3) Icemaker not ejecting the frozen ice.
For a compact icemaker to operate properly, the refrigerator freezer compartment must be maintained at 10 degrees F or lower. The design of the icemaker is such that the icemaker will not eject the ice until it is frozen hard. Read the rest of this entry »
This is very important if you have a fridge with a built in deep-freeze compartment and not so if you have a frost-fee fridge. You know that feeling when you’re desperately trying to get to that last little ice cream lying in the back of the compartment and end up wrecking the ice compartment’s door because it won’t open?
When more than 10 mm of ice has accumulated it’s time to defrost. If the fridge has a defrost setting, engage it, or simply switch off the fridge. Some fridges can take up to 24 hours to defrost completely; consult the manufacturer’s instruction manual. Read the rest of this entry »
