Even the most accurate through the lens exposure meter can be fooled by a subject surrounded by large dark or light areas, subjects which are predominantly back lit, or those against unusual backgrounds. These can influence the meter, providing false information about the light level. Thus the main subject is over-exposed if the meter reacts to a large expanse of black background and, conversely, underexposure of the subject results if it is back lit or surrounded by a large bright area. Read the rest of this entry »
Exposure meters indicate light intensity and are designed to help you get a correct exposure every time you take a photograph. When a light reading is taken the meter indicates the correct adjustments needed to the camera aperture and shutter speed settings. This sounds simple, as indeed it is, but not all subjects can be treated in a straightforward way. How would you tackle a backlit subject, a snow scene or subjects in deep shadow, for example? In such situations your exposure meter can well mislead you into giving the wrong exposure. ‘Correct‘ exposures are a matter of interpreting meter readings and applying them to the subject in hand. Read the rest of this entry »
Most modern cameras have a light meter built in. This has proved to be very popular among amateurs and professionals alike because of the speed and convenience it offers.
All exposure meters work towards the same end—to give the photographer exposure information—but the ways in which they operate vary widely. There are two basic types however: coupled and uncoupled. Examples of both systems are found in 35mm reflex and non–reflex as well as in smaller and larger format cameras. Read the rest of this entry »
You can measure the light either from the camera position or from close to the subject. The reading can be taken in two ways: using the light reflected from the subject or the incident light falling on the subject. Incident light readings can only be taken using a hand-held meter.
A reflected light reading, taken by both built-in and hand-held meters, measures the light bouncing off the subject. It can he measured either from the camera position, where you will actually take the photograph, or close to the subject. Taking the reading from the camera position will give an overall impression of the available light, including the background. But, if one part of the picture is more important than the rest, walk up to it and take the reading, or measure the light on a substitute. For example, a hand held close to the meter will represent skin tones in a portrait if similarly lit. Read the rest of this entry »
Choosing the best exposure for a picture is just as important as getting the image sharp. A beautiful holiday picture on the beach is spoiled if you cannot see details of the people in the photographs—they may be too light or dark.
A correctly exposed negative or slide will have a full range of tones from deep shadows to bright highlights. Under-expose your photograph and the darker parts of the picture will contain little detail; over-expose, and the bright parts will appear all washed out and lacking in detail. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.
Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.
Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure. Read the rest of this entry »
If the heating element tests OK, you should next check all the electrical wiring from the dryer timer assembly, thermostats, and drive motor. Electrical wiring in a dryer becomes brittle and burned because of the excessive heat. To locate defects in the wiring, use a volt/ohmmeter to make continuity checks on wires that you suspect are faulty.
The problem of no heat in the gas dryer is much the same as the electric dryer, except that instead of checking for a possible defective heating element, you must check the gas ignition circuit. A sure and simple test is check voltage to the gas burner wiring harness. Read the rest of this entry »
There are three types of failures that are associated with the Fridge start capacitor. These failures are a defective capacitor. an open filament capacitor, and a grounded capacitor. You can check each of the above failures with the volt/ohmmeter. First, unplug the Fridge power cord. Using hand tools, remove the screws that secure the Fridge back and remove the starting capacitor from the compressor starting package. Look for traces of oil on or around the capacitor. If oil is present, the capacitor is defective.
CAUTION: A charged capacitor is extremely dangerous. A capacitor that has been removed from the compressor starting package will hold a charge indefinitely, even when not in use. If you touch the terminals of a charged capacitor, the built-up voltage could give a high-voltage shock that could be fatal. A flat-blade screwdriver across the terminals should be used to discharge a capacitor. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
To test for an open circuit in a component, make a note of and then remove the original wiring to that component. If this is not done, false readings may be given from other items that may be in circuit. Attach the ends of the two probes of the meter to the suspect component. For example, to test a heater for continuity, place the probes on the tags at the end of the heater and watch the meter. The needle should move. At this stage, it does not matter if the needle does not reach zero. If the heater is open circuit (no movement), it should be tested further. If closed circuit, the heater has not failed. Read the rest of this entry »
