Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
You can check the evaporator fan motor by removing the plastic breaker strips on the left- and right-hand sides of the freezer section of the fridge.
NOTE: When removing the plastic breaker strips, it is recommended that they be pre-heated using a 40-to-60-watt light bulb. The light bulb is applied to each breaker strip for 5 to 7 minutes, to warm the pieces and make them more pliable and less subject to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific symptoms include: 1) Compressor motor runs all the time and does not cycle regularly. 2) Food freezing in the fridge section of the fridge. To find the cause of this problem, which is usually caused by a faulty thermostat, move the fridge out from the wall and unplug the fridge power cord.
Unplug the fridge power cord before servicing the fridge. Move the fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the fridge because the fridge feet can damage the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord. Using hand tools, remove the icemaker from the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the front cover from the icemaker. Remove the front component plate that is secured to the ice maker support housing. Remove the screws that secure the cycling thermostat to the icemaker support.
Remove electrical wires from the terminals on the support housing, and carefully remove the thermostat. Read the rest of this entry »
Next in line after the water supply valve is the water inlet valve, usually located at the back of the machine near the bottom. The role of the water inlet valve is to release supply water from the supply line so that it can enter the icemaker mold cavity. However, the valve’s internal components can eventually become worn out from the corrosive properties and algae in the water, and fail to supply water to the mold cavity. Check the water inlet valve to see if it is electrically releasing the water on command to the mold cavity. Read the rest of this entry »
A radial power circuit is the name given to a circuit supplying a number of 13 A socket-outlets and fixed appliances using one cable which is not wired in the form of a ring but terminates at the last outlet.
The permitted number of socket-outlets (and fixed appliances) depends on the current rating of the circuit which can be either 20 A, wired in 2.5 mm2 cable, or 30 A wired in 4 mm2 cable. The number of socket-outlets and fixed appliances which can be served by a 20 A radial circuit depends also on the location of the circuit and whether the outlets are confined to one room. Read the rest of this entry »
A basic understanding of electricity is essential, even for those who do not intend to carry out any repairs or servicing of appliances. Ignorance is no protection against your own or someone else’s errors and oversights, whether with repairs, servicing or installation.
Power is supplied to an electricity substation at a very high voltage — 400,000 volts — in three-phase form. There it is converted, via a transformer, to 230 volt single-phase for distribution to our homes. In normal circumstances, current flows from the live supply of the substation’s transformer, through the electrical appliances used in the house and back via the neutral conductor (cable) to the substation transformer’s neutral pole (a closed loop). Read the rest of this entry »
Capacitors used for motor starting may have metal or plastic outer casings with an insulated top with two terminals. Internally the two terminals are connected to two sheets of metal foil with an insulator between. This package of large surface area is rolled into a cylinder which fits into the shell of the capacitor. As the voltage supplied to one terminal is alternating (at 50 times per second), so does the polarity of its connected foil. An opposite movement of electrons is induced in the other foil, even though they are insulated electrically. This causes a delay in the electrical path, and this, in the case of an asynchronous induction motor, gives the outof-phase feed to the start winding. Read the rest of this entry »
Most labour-saving household appliances contain an electric motor of some description. They are the workhorse of these appliances and most of them are capable of coping with the work loads inflicted upon them. However, some motors, either through poor design or as a result of manufacturers’ cost limitations, are inadequate for the job they are required to do. Adequate or not, at some point it is almost inevitable that they will fail or simply wear out. To delay this, use the appliance with some care and attention, be aware of its limitations and carry out regular inspection and servicing. This will prevent small problems escalating into major ones
Not only do the sizes of motors vary greatly between products, so too do the ways in which they work. To diagnose faults successfully and service or repair appliances, a working knowledge of motors is essential. The following provide a basic introduction to the various types, a description of how they work, the appliances in which each may be found and their particular advantages and drawbacks. Specific problems can be found on individual appliances. Read the rest of this entry »
If a drop in power output is suspected, the following simple check can be carried out. You need paper and pencil, a spoon, two microwave-proof containers bigger than 500m1 (18fl oz) and a thermometer capable of readings between 10°C and 50°C. (The thermometer must not be used inside the microwave.) Unless seconds can be set on the oven itself, you will also require a stopwatch.
