A final condition that could cause weak pump-out is a loose drive belt that doesn’t rotate the water pump. A sure and quick check that involves no hand tools is to turn the timer knob to a cycle where there is a motor function such as spin or agitate. With the timer dial on spin cycle, the washer should begin to spin the clothes. If you hear the sound of the motor running, but the washer tub is not moving or attempting to spin the clothes, then it can be assumed that the washer drive belt is slipping on the drive motor pulley or the belt is broken. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer has burning smell when running or labors excessively when running. 2) Wash water does not drain from the machine either at the end of the cycle or when the washer enters pump out phase of the cycle. To find the cause of the problem, remove the washer drain hose from the drain standpipe and check for a kinked hose and start the washer. If water now pumps out of the washer, the problem is a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out of the washer, the problem is either the washer self -cleaning filter, timer assembly, a filter trap restriction, or a non- operating water pump. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the washer power cord before servicing automatic washer. Exercise care when moving washer from its original position, or the washer legs might damage the floor. To Replace Water Inlet Valve
To remove a water inlet valve, you must first turn OFF the hot and cold water at the wash station. Remove the two fill hoses with water pump pliers. Read the rest of this entry »
If you have determined that the water inlet valve is in working order, next check the outer tub post seal as the cause of the water leak. When diagnosing a water leak in a washer outer tub, you must first fill the tub with warm or hot water and run the washer for ten to fifteen minutes. When making this check, be patient because the washer may or may not leak the first time you check it. Look for water either at the front, left or right hand side or at back of the washer. Washers use a seal (or seals) around the tub center post. As hot or warm water enters the washer outer tub, the hot water softens the tub seal, which allows water to leak on the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
The drive motor start and run windings can be checked with a volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt! ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe on the white lead of the drive motor terminal block, the remaining probe is placed on the blue lead of the drive motor terminal block. The volt/ohmmeter should show continuity (or approximately four ohms resistance) if the motor winding is good. No continuity would suggest an open or burned-out winding. If the drive motor has a humming sound when the motor tries to start, the start switch must be checked. Read the rest of this entry »
If the timer contact terminals show continuity and you find no voltage at the temperature selector switch, then you must make a continuity check for burned or broken wires from the timer assembly to the temperature selector switch. With the volt/ohmmeter dial set on the RX-1 scale, disconnect one wire from the terminal of the selector switch and attach a probe. Touch the remaining probe to the other end of same wire. If the wire you are checking is good, continuity (0 ohms) will be measured on the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
If the washer is not spinning, the next check is of the washer control magnet. Washers use a control magnet, an electrical-mechanical component, to enable the gearcase to shift into the spin cycle. You can easily check the control magnet by using the volt/ohmmeter set on the RX-10 scale. With the volt/ohmmeter on RX-10 scale, connect the probes to both terminals of the control magnet. NOTE: When checking a suspected faulty control magnet, remove the wires from the washer wiring harness to avoid an inaccurate reading. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer fills with water, and motor starts to run, but the washer agitator does not turn in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, or 2) At end of cycle, clothes are gritty and soapy with water.
To find the cause of the problem, first check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall socket. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”
To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.
Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts. Read the rest of this entry »
Next, check the dryer cycling thermostats as the possible cause for no heat in the dryer. The types of thermostats most commonly used in dryers (gas or electric), are the bimetal fixedand adjustable thermostats. Their primary function is to break the circuit to the gas main burner or the heating element when a certain temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. You can easily check these thermostats by removing one lead from the suspected thermostat. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe of the volt/- ohmmeter on each terminal of the thermostat. You should see a continuity reading on the volt/- ohmmeter scale of approximately 0 ohms, or full- meter deflection. If the thermostat does not show continuity, replace the defective thermostat to restore the dryer to proper operating order. Read the rest of this entry »
