Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
An obvious failure symptom is when you select a drying cycle and attempt to start the dryer, but it does not run. To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from its position and unplug the power cord.
If line voltage is indicated on the volt/- ohmmeter, check the dryer power cord as possible cause of the problem.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks on components. Read the rest of this entry »
There are three types of failures that are associated with the Fridge start capacitor. These failures are a defective capacitor. an open filament capacitor, and a grounded capacitor. You can check each of the above failures with the volt/ohmmeter. First, unplug the Fridge power cord. Using hand tools, remove the screws that secure the Fridge back and remove the starting capacitor from the compressor starting package. Look for traces of oil on or around the capacitor. If oil is present, the capacitor is defective.
CAUTION: A charged capacitor is extremely dangerous. A capacitor that has been removed from the compressor starting package will hold a charge indefinitely, even when not in use. If you touch the terminals of a charged capacitor, the built-up voltage could give a high-voltage shock that could be fatal. A flat-blade screwdriver across the terminals should be used to discharge a capacitor. Read the rest of this entry »
You can check the evaporator fan motor by removing the plastic breaker strips on the left- and right-hand sides of the freezer section of the fridge.
NOTE: When removing the plastic breaker strips, it is recommended that they be pre-heated using a 40-to-60-watt light bulb. The light bulb is applied to each breaker strip for 5 to 7 minutes, to warm the pieces and make them more pliable and less subject to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Move the refrigerator out from the wall. Unplug the refrigerator power cord, and turn OFF the water supply to the icemaker.
Using hand tools, remove screws and discard the defective water supply valve. When installing a water supply valve on the water heater, install only on the cold-water side of the water heater. Read the rest of this entry »
Next in line after the water supply valve is the water inlet valve, usually located at the back of the machine near the bottom. The role of the water inlet valve is to release supply water from the supply line so that it can enter the icemaker mold cavity. However, the valve’s internal components can eventually become worn out from the corrosive properties and algae in the water, and fail to supply water to the mold cavity. Check the water inlet valve to see if it is electrically releasing the water on command to the mold cavity. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific symptoms include: Little or no water enters the dishwasher tub cavity. To find the cause, first check to be sure the water supply is ON.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on dishwasher components. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter.
When making continuity checks with the volt/ohmmeter, always turn the electricity OFF at the circuit breaker panel. Live voltage checks will damage the meter movement. Read the rest of this entry »
To test for an open circuit in a component, make a note of and then remove the original wiring to that component. If this is not done, false readings may be given from other items that may be in circuit. Attach the ends of the two probes of the meter to the suspect component. For example, to test a heater for continuity, place the probes on the tags at the end of the heater and watch the meter. The needle should move. At this stage, it does not matter if the needle does not reach zero. If the heater is open circuit (no movement), it should be tested further. If closed circuit, the heater has not failed. Read the rest of this entry »
Throughout this post, references are made to meters and their use in continuity testing of individual parts of the appliances and their connecting wires. All testing and checking for ‘open’ (not allowing for current flow) or `closed’ circuit (allowing current to flow) must be carried out using a battery-powered multimeter or test meter. Testing should never be carried out on live items under any circumstances. Appliances must be disconnected from the mains supply. Read the rest of this entry »
Low insulation is best described as a slight leak to earth of electricity from the wiring of one or more of the components or wiring in an earthed appliance. If very slight, it will not harm the appliance but is an indication of faults to come and should be corrected immediately for safety reasons. The condition occurs during the progressive breakdown of the insulating properties of a normally electrically leak-proof system.
It may be caused by normal wear and tear over a long period, resulting in a breakdown of the insulating coating on wiring, motor windings, heater elements, etc. Such a breakdown of insulation may not result in a failure of this part at this stage and the appliance may still function as normal. This, however, is not an excuse to ignore low insulation; failure to trace and rectify it is foolhardy because it compromises safety. Also extra expense is likely to be incurred in the long run. Read the rest of this entry »
