This valve assembly is probably the most important component of the gas burner assembly. The valve assembly controls the flow of gas to the main burner from the gas supply line.
Cycling thermostats are bi-metal devices or thermo-discs that are designed to cut the main burner OFF when a pre-determined temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. There is no adjustment of the temperature response of these thermostats. Read the rest of this entry »
Next, check the dryer cycling thermostats as the possible cause for no heat in the dryer. The types of thermostats most commonly used in dryers (gas or electric), are the bimetal fixedand adjustable thermostats. Their primary function is to break the circuit to the gas main burner or the heating element when a certain temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. You can easily check these thermostats by removing one lead from the suspected thermostat. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe of the volt/- ohmmeter on each terminal of the thermostat. You should see a continuity reading on the volt/- ohmmeter scale of approximately 0 ohms, or full- meter deflection. If the thermostat does not show continuity, replace the defective thermostat to restore the dryer to proper operating order. Read the rest of this entry »
This failure is normally attributed to a loss of electrical power or an electrical overload.
To find the cause of the problem, move the dryer out from the wall and unplug the dryer power cord from dryer wall receptacle. Make a voltage check with the volt/ohmmeter to determine if there is electrical power available to the dryer receptacle or to the dryer power cord.
To avoid incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter before making continuity checks. See operating instructions that came with your volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) An unusual smell in the laundry room. 2) The top of the dryer is very hot to the touch. 3) The clothes are extremely hot and wrinkled at the end of the cycle.
When a dryer is overheating, the first concern should be whether the heater element is cycling (turning ON and OFF). An easy check is to set the heat selector to a heat position and turn the timer to the ON position. With the dryer running, turn the overhead lights OFF. Check the back of the dryer (with the back panel removed). On left-hand side of cabinet there should be a visible glow from the heater box. This glow would indicate that the dryer is heating and has the required voltage. After a period of four to six minutes, the heater should cycle off and the glow should fade. If not, then probably the dryer cycling thermostats or adjustable thermostat is not functioning properly. You will have to replace the defective thermostat(s) in order for the dryer to operate properly. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the Fridge, because the Fridge legs can easily damage the floor.
Open the Fridge door and locate the control console in the back of the Fridge cabinet. Remove the screws that secure the console cover. Remove the thermostat bracket. NOTE: Before removing the defrost timer from the Fridge cabinet, mark the wires, so they can be replaced correctly on the replacement part. Next, remove the screws that secure the defrost timer to the Fridge cabinet. Next, remove wiring harness and remove defrost timer. Read the rest of this entry »
Other specific symptoms include: 1) Food not remaining at desired temperature. 2) Compressor does not cycle ON.
Because the interior light is ON, the Fridge has the required electric power to operate.
Something is causing the compressor not to cycle ON. Check the components in the order that they are listed below. The most likely component at fault is the defrost timer, which could be stuck in the defrost cycle. The Fridge is then in a permanent state of defrost and does not cycle ON. However, if the compressor tries to start and the interior light dims, the problem is probably not the defrost timer or the thermostat; therefore, check the components of the compressor assembly starting with the starting relay. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug refrigerator power cord. Using hand tools, remove the icemaker from the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the front cover from the icemaker. Remove the front component plate that is secured to the ice maker support housing. Remove the screws that secure the cycling thermostat to the icemaker support.
Remove electrical wires from the terminals on the support housing, and carefully remove the thermostat. Read the rest of this entry »
Next in line after the water supply valve is the water inlet valve, usually located at the back of the machine near the bottom. The role of the water inlet valve is to release supply water from the supply line so that it can enter the icemaker mold cavity. However, the valve’s internal components can eventually become worn out from the corrosive properties and algae in the water, and fail to supply water to the mold cavity. Check the water inlet valve to see if it is electrically releasing the water on command to the mold cavity. Read the rest of this entry »
Portable electric heaters and many fixed electric heaters are controlled by a switch or switches mounted on the frame of the heater. In addition, the heater is switched at a switched socket-outlet or switched fused connection unit or is connected to a non-switched socket-outlet which means pulling out the plug to switch off the heater.
Wall panel heaters, oil filled radiators, convectors and other heaters operating at ‘black heat’ have an integral thermostat which is set to the required room temperature. Read the rest of this entry »
Aschematic diagram of the internal workings of a pod-type thermostat. This type is used in appliances that have a variable temperature control. It consists of an oil-filled pod connected to the switch by a capillary tube. When the oil in the pod is heated or cooled, it expands or contracts in the tube and operates a diaphragm. The diaphragm acts on the switchgear thus breaking the circuit and in this instance, ‘making’ the other. The cooling oil contracts, pulling the switch the opposite way — back to its original position; the process repeats if temperatures change. Read the rest of this entry »
