Specific failure symptoms include: 1) The washer won’t complete the wash or spin cycle. 2) The washer has a burning smell during the wash and spin cycle. 3) The washer leaves water in the tub at the end of the cycle.
Check the washer power cord for a possible loose connection at the wall plug receptacle.
Check to see if the wall receptacle is defective or has burned or oxidized contacts. If so, the repair should be made by a licensed electrician. Read the rest of this entry »
If the timer contact terminals show continuity and you find no voltage at the temperature selector switch, then you must make a continuity check for burned or broken wires from the timer assembly to the temperature selector switch. With the volt/ohmmeter dial set on the RX-1 scale, disconnect one wire from the terminal of the selector switch and attach a probe. Touch the remaining probe to the other end of same wire. If the wire you are checking is good, continuity (0 ohms) will be measured on the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer advances through the cycle but leaves water in the tub, or 2) The washer pumps all of the water out of the tub but clothes are wet at end of the cycle.
Check to be sure the washer lid is securely closed. Most automatic washers are designed to shut OFF if the washer lid is in the “up” position. This is a safety feature designed to prevent injury if the lid is opened while the washer is running and spinning.
Check to make sure that the washer power cord has not worked loose in the wall receptacle. A faulty connection could be the cause of washer failure. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”
To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.
Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts. Read the rest of this entry »
Next, check the dryer cycling thermostats as the possible cause for no heat in the dryer. The types of thermostats most commonly used in dryers (gas or electric), are the bimetal fixedand adjustable thermostats. Their primary function is to break the circuit to the gas main burner or the heating element when a certain temperature has been attained in the dryer drum. You can easily check these thermostats by removing one lead from the suspected thermostat. Set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Place one probe of the volt/- ohmmeter on each terminal of the thermostat. You should see a continuity reading on the volt/- ohmmeter scale of approximately 0 ohms, or full- meter deflection. If the thermostat does not show continuity, replace the defective thermostat to restore the dryer to proper operating order. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Clothes are not dry at end of cycle. 2) The dryer timer assembly is not advancing in the cycle properly.
To find the cause of the problem, first move the dryer out from the wall and remove the vent hose. With the dryer running, place your hand on the dryer exhaust duct to determine if there is any hot air being discharged. If the air is cold, you will have to make a line voltage check at the dryer receptacle to determine whether full 220-to-240-volt power is available. Read the rest of this entry »
Turn OFF the electricity at the circuit breaker panelbefore servicing the dishwasher. Exercise care when moving the dishwasher from its space. The leveling legs can easily damage the floor.
Turn OFF the electricity at the circuit breaker panel. Remove the screws that secure the lower panel to the dishwasher cabinet. Disconnect the drive motor connector from the harness wiring. Remove the hose clamp from drain hose that is secured to drive motor base coupling. Remove drain hose from coupling. NOTE: When removing drain hose, place a small pan or towel under the motor base coupling. It is possible that when hose is removed water could spill onto the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Dishwasher has a full tub of water at the end of the cycle. 2) Dishwasher only partially drains and leaves water in tub at end of cycle.
Remove the lower panel. Locate the pump drain hose and see if a kink in the hose is evident. If so, remove the kink and check the dishwasher for proper operation. If the dishwasher now pumps the water out, you found the problem — a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out, the problem is in the dishwasher pump assembly. Read the rest of this entry »
The automatic dishwasher starts the cycle once the homeowner has placed the dishes in the dishwasher and the timer is pushed in or pulled out to ON. With the unit ON, electricity flows through the timer contacts to the water inlet valve solenoid. As the solenoid opens, hot water flows through the inlet valve, the inlet hose, and then into the dishwasher tub cavity. Read the rest of this entry »
