When the solenoid is energized, the plunger is pulled upward by magnetic force of the solenoid coil, and the pin travels back and forth in the upper slot of the spin cam bar. This action pulls the spin cam bar backward from the basket clutch shaft, which allows the bar to slide downward toward the clutch lining. Read the rest of this entry »
All automatic washers employ a 110-volt, A/C (alternating current) electrical power source. This power source is used not only to power the washer drive motor, but also the various electrical components such as timer, solenoids, valves, water level control, and switches. Listed below are components and their functions, which will help you in understanding, diagnosing, and repairing common electrical and mechanical failures. Read the rest of this entry »
As with any other kind of solar heating, solar water heaters are at an advantage when planned for a new home, because the design can incorporate them efficiently.
In the passive house at lower right, for example, the water heater’s design benefited from the house’s design flexibility, and vice versa, to their mutual advantage. The dormer on which the collectors are mounted lifts the roofline of the house, allowing extra headroom in the second-floor family room behind it. Read the rest of this entry »
A final condition that could cause weak pump-out is a loose drive belt that doesn’t rotate the water pump. A sure and quick check that involves no hand tools is to turn the timer knob to a cycle where there is a motor function such as spin or agitate. With the timer dial on spin cycle, the washer should begin to spin the clothes. If you hear the sound of the motor running, but the washer tub is not moving or attempting to spin the clothes, then it can be assumed that the washer drive belt is slipping on the drive motor pulley or the belt is broken. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer has burning smell when running or labors excessively when running. 2) Wash water does not drain from the machine either at the end of the cycle or when the washer enters pump out phase of the cycle. To find the cause of the problem, remove the washer drain hose from the drain standpipe and check for a kinked hose and start the washer. If water now pumps out of the washer, the problem is a kinked drain hose. If little or no water is being pumped out of the washer, the problem is either the washer self -cleaning filter, timer assembly, a filter trap restriction, or a non- operating water pump. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the washer power cord before servicing automatic washer. Exercise care when moving washer from its original position, or the washer legs might damage the floor. To Replace Water Inlet Valve
To remove a water inlet valve, you must first turn OFF the hot and cold water at the wash station. Remove the two fill hoses with water pump pliers. Read the rest of this entry »
If you have determined that the water inlet valve is in working order, next check the outer tub post seal as the cause of the water leak. When diagnosing a water leak in a washer outer tub, you must first fill the tub with warm or hot water and run the washer for ten to fifteen minutes. When making this check, be patient because the washer may or may not leak the first time you check it. Look for water either at the front, left or right hand side or at back of the washer. Washers use a seal (or seals) around the tub center post. As hot or warm water enters the washer outer tub, the hot water softens the tub seal, which allows water to leak on the floor. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Washer begins to agitate or spin and water spills or leaks onto the floor. 2) After the washer has completed its cycle, water appears on the laundry room floor. To locate the cause of the problem, first look behind the washer at the wash station stand pipe. Check the washer water inlet valve, which has two hoses (hot-cold) attached, for deterioration of the hoses. If a hose has a leak, replace it.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions. Read the rest of this entry »
If the timer contact terminals show continuity and you find no voltage at the temperature selector switch, then you must make a continuity check for burned or broken wires from the timer assembly to the temperature selector switch. With the volt/ohmmeter dial set on the RX-1 scale, disconnect one wire from the terminal of the selector switch and attach a probe. Touch the remaining probe to the other end of same wire. If the wire you are checking is good, continuity (0 ohms) will be measured on the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Little or no water enters the washer. 2) The washer does I not complete the washing cycle. 3) The washer drive motor does not run during cycle. To find the cause of the problem, first check to be sure both the hot and cold water faucets are turned on at the wash station.
To avoid any incorrect readings when using the volt/ohmmeter, always “zero” the ohmmeter scale of the volt/ohmmeter before making any continuity checks on components. See operating instructions that came with the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
