The drive motor start and run windings can be checked with a volt/ohmmeter. Set the volt! ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale and place one probe on the white lead of the drive motor terminal block, the remaining probe is placed on the blue lead of the drive motor terminal block. The volt/ohmmeter should show continuity (or approximately four ohms resistance) if the motor winding is good. No continuity would suggest an open or burned-out winding. If the drive motor has a humming sound when the motor tries to start, the start switch must be checked. Read the rest of this entry »
If the timer contact terminals show continuity and you find no voltage at the temperature selector switch, then you must make a continuity check for burned or broken wires from the timer assembly to the temperature selector switch. With the volt/ohmmeter dial set on the RX-1 scale, disconnect one wire from the terminal of the selector switch and attach a probe. Touch the remaining probe to the other end of same wire. If the wire you are checking is good, continuity (0 ohms) will be measured on the volt/ohmmeter. Read the rest of this entry »
If the washer is not spinning, the next check is of the washer control magnet. Washers use a control magnet, an electrical-mechanical component, to enable the gearcase to shift into the spin cycle. You can easily check the control magnet by using the volt/ohmmeter set on the RX-10 scale. With the volt/ohmmeter on RX-10 scale, connect the probes to both terminals of the control magnet. NOTE: When checking a suspected faulty control magnet, remove the wires from the washer wiring harness to avoid an inaccurate reading. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) When the washer is turned ON, nothing happens. 2) When the washer is turned ON you hear a faint “buzz.”
To find the cause of this problem, first check to be sure that the washer is plugged in a working power source.
Make a line voltage check at the washer receptacle to determine if the problem is a faulty power receptacle or a problem within the washer. Make a voltage line check by setting the volt/ohmmeter on the 150 A/C scale and placing the probes in the holes of the wall receptacle. The meter should read 110-125 volts. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the power cord or gas supply before servicing the clothes dryer. Move clothes dryer out from the wall. Exercise care when moving the dryer from its original position because the dryer legs can easily tear holes in your floor.
Remove screws to dryer top. Lift the top of the dryer by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver between the cabinet and the top of the dryer. Remove the screws that secure door switch to dryer front panel and discard the door switch. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the fridge power cord before servicing the fridge. Move the fridge out from the wall. Use extreme care when moving the fridge, because the fridge legs can tear or damage the floor.
Using hand tools, remove the screws on all four sides of the fridge or freezer doors so that you can remove and discard the defective gasket(s). Before removing the old gasket, note carefully how the gasket is installed, because the replacement gasket has to be installed in the same position as the defective gasket that is removed. Before installing the replacement gasket, heat the rubber with a home hair dryer set on low heat. This will make the rubber more flexible,’ and easier to install on the fridge or freezer door. Install the replacement door gasket by mounting the lip of the gasket under the retainer plate. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug the Fridge power cord before servicing the Fridge. Move the Fridge out from the wall. Use care when moving the Fridge, because the metal feet can tear or damage the floor.
Open the freezer door and remove the plastic breaker strips at the front of freezer section. NOTE: When removing plastic breaker strips, heat them with a low- wattage (40-60) light bulb for 5 to 7 minutes. Heat will make the plastic more pliable and less susceptible to breakage. Read the rest of this entry »
Specific failure symptoms include: 1) Frost build-up on back wall in freezer section of Fridge. 2) Fridge ice maker not making ice. 3) Food not remaining at the desired temperature in both the Fridge and freezer sections.
When the Fridge starts to build up frost in the freezer section, you can assume that something is preventing the Fridge from going into the defrost cycle. You will have to check the components of the defrost circuit. Move the Fridge out from the wall and unplug the Fridge power cord. Check the components in the order listed below. Read the rest of this entry »
A wall light is fixed by its baseplate either to a box sunk into the wall or it is fixed direct to the wall. The box, termed ‘BESA’ box, is a termination box to contain the ends of the circuit wires from which the sheath is removed, and a flex connector which joints the wires to the flex of the fitting.
Only wall lights having a baseplate with 50 mm (2 in) fixing centres to match the lugs in the box can be mounted on this circular box. Most wall lights have other types of baseplate of which there are many shapes and sizes. Read the rest of this entry »
There are two principal methods of wiring a lighting circuit, the loop-in system and the joint box system. In practice a circuit is often a mixture of both methods, the principal sections being loop-in with some lighting points being wired in conjunction with joint boxes to save cable and to facilitate the wiring. For both methods twin-core and earth PVC sheathed cable is used.
In the loop-in system, ceiling roses combine the functions of ceiling rose and joint box as the circuit wires are jointed at the ceiling rose terminals. The flexible cord of the pendant is connected to the rose terminals. Read the rest of this entry »
